2011 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
This is the last year for the Charmes for quite a bit: the vineyard has been pulled up for replanting. After the open Genevrières, this is back to the tightness of the Poruzots. Fresh almonds, lots of body, nice elegance and balance, but flavours all a bit unresolved. L&S (Mar 2017)
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After the expressive Genevrières, this is much more closed on the nose. However… it has a straight palate with pure and crystalline fruit, racy and tense. Crisp edges. Very direct and fresh. Good intensity and a long pure and straight finish. Crystalline wine with delightfully pitched purity and elegance. Top notch Charmes for this year. This is precisely what I want to see. Fine++. From 2017 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing
(from a crop level under 25 hectoliters per hectare, said Jobard, who pulled up these degenerating 1970 vines on SO4 rootstock after the harvest): Bright, light yellow. Rich, ripe aromas of peach, butter and hazelnut lifted by a high-pitched note of orange zest. Powerful, thick and concentrated but also quite juicy, with quintessential Charmes flavors of lemon, orange, vanilla and oatmeal. Nothing overripe here! This fruit bomb spreads out nicely on the palate and finishes rich, satisfying and long. Has the balance to give early pleasure as well as the stuffing to age. Clearly the best of these 2011s. Rating: 93 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Jobard's 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes is rich, ample and broad on the palate. Creamy and wonderfully expressive, the 2011 bursts from the glass with layer after layer of flavor. All the seductive elements of Charmes come together beautifully in a wine that is pure class. Hints of pear and dried flowers leave a lasting impression. Rating: 94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The entire domaine is certified organic from 2008. Rémi says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients. Remi has two vast new presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and is sure that this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour. One of the absolutely top domaines of the Côte de Beaune, and still at prices that are well, well below his qualitative equivalents.
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