2012 Grand Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien
|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
This is mostly in Mazoyères. Planted 27 years ago, two clones, and originally pruned in cordon to reduce vigour, but some did not do well so he has moved to guyot. Best wine in the 'Bourgogne Aujourd'hui' tasting of the 2012s, quite an accolade. Rich and round and full-bodied, elegant but meaty Gevrey fruit in appetising length. Even with 100% destemmed fruit it has a powerful tannic structure. Very classy. L&S (Jan 2014)
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Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, never exceeding 20% new wood on the Grands Crus, 15% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 10% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
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