2012 Chevalières Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Oldest vines of the domaine, planted in 1940. Picked even after the Narvaux, because even though it is lower, it is round the corner into the beginning of the combe which goes up to Auxey Duresses, and faces east-north-east. Nose has a touch of creamy lactic, but the palate is glassy calm, mineral and pure, fresh and subtly delicate. The intensity of flavour is matched by the freshness of acidity. Very long. L&S (Dec 2013)
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Palish yellow. Pear, white peach and nutmeg on the nose. Distinctly savory and dry, with salty minerality currently dominating underlying fruit. Boasts good depth of flavor if not the power of the Narvaux; in a distinctly more elegant style. Best today on the long, sappy finish, which throws off notes of orange, flowers and spices. This need time in the cellar to blossom. Rating: 90+ Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Sep 2014)
There is a vestige of post-bottling SO2 present on the otherwise pleasingly elegant, cool and pure aromas of citrus blossom, pear and wet stone touches. There is a lovely intensity yet also a delicacy to the beautifully well-delineated middle weight flavors that brim with a fine minerality on the vibrant, balanced and solidly persistent finish. This is textbook Chevalières. 2017+ Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jun 2014)
Keen fruit with good intensity. Good core of fruit in the middle palate, which shows some breadth. It is not a mineral wine, more fruit driven and will have some power, but is also more restrained than Luraule. It finishes firmly. Particularly good. From 2016 Rating: 16.5 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Feb 2014)
Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2014)
Very slight toffee character on the nose, then a razor-sharp apple fruit on the palate. Light leesy mouthfeel, moderate length. 2014-2020 Rating: 17 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2014)
The 2012 Meursault Les Chevaliers has a very vibrant, shimmering bouquet with citrus peel, orange blossom, hints of tropical fruit and minerals. The palate is well balanced with finely judged acidity, excellent tension and a cheeky, oyster shell finish. This surpasses everything you could ask from Meursault village cru. Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Jan 2014)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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