2012 1er Cru Rugiens Domaine de Courcel
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Fine. This year it really sings again. Intense concentration and a touch of salinity in the tannins. Dense, savoury. Almost (but not) 'too much'. Amazing concentrated length. L&S (Dec 2013)
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Domaine de Courcel
The other great domaine of Pommard, and three great expressions of the terroir of Pommard, yet a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.
Medium red, a bit less deep than the Grand Clos des Epenots. Sexy, multidimensional nose combines scents of dark raspberry, strawberry, mocha, iron, truffle, tobacco leaf and iris. Compellingly full and silky on the palate, conveying a pronounced fruit sweetness but also a firm shape and a solid mineral underpinning. Noble building tannins saturate the palate and front teeth. This wine may yet shut down in the bottle but it's wonderfully complex and satisfying right now. Drinking range: 2021 - 2035 Rating: 93+ Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Mar 2015)
(from a 1.07 ha parcel in Rugiens-Hauts). Reduction completely dominates the nose at present. There is plenty of wood influence to the broad-shouldered and quite concentrated flavors that exude a fine minerality on the powerful and impressively long finish though here again there is enough bitterness today that it at least poses the question as to whether it will age out in time. My range offers the benefit of the doubt. 2027+ Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2014)
The fact that Yves Confuron manages to make such impressive wines at this Pommard domaine, while also running his own family estate makes you wonder at his levels of energy. This is typically aromatic and spicy, with evident whole bunch characters on the nose and palate. It’s also a very ethereal Pommard, with fine tannins and a focused, mineral finish. The tannins are there, but they support rather than dominate the wine. 2018-30 Rating: 96 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2014)
Delicious iodine, liquorice and mushroom character – this has a fantastic array of rare, exotic flavours – in fact, it reminds me of the (few) times I’ve tasted DRC. Bags of tannin, really unique flavours – a benchmark Burgundy, and up there with the best of them. Needs loads of age. 2024-2044 Rating: 19 Richard Hemming - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2014)
(the crop level here was a tiny 13 hectoliters per hectare, according to Yves Confuron, and just 9.5 in 2013): Good bright, full red. Captivating, complex aromas of red raspberry, redcurrant, flowers, minerals and mocha. A step up in sweetness and thickness from the Grand Clos des Epenots, but with lively pepper and spice notes giving the wine very good definition and energy. The biggest and longest of these 2012s, finishing with ripe tannins and a lingering note of iron. Very concentrated wine with superb potential. Rating: 92-94 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2014)
The 2012 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens has a light and more airy bouquet when compared to the Grand Clos les Epenots – well defined and very pure. The palate is crisp and taut with blood orange infusing the red berry fruit, but the finish is a tight fist of tannins at the moment. Rating: 87-89 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com (Jan 2014)
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