2013 Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Joseph Drouhin
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Clos des Mouches|
Notes of smoky reduction block an evaluation of the nose though there is good vibrancy to the impressively dense medium weight flavors that exude a fine minerality onto the tension-filled, bright and mildly austere finish. The acidity is prominent but not drying and while the balance isn’t perfect my sense is that this will come together if given a few years of cellar time first. 2019+ Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2015)
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Destemmed, 22 days' maceration, 14 months in oak. Ready for bottling. Small harvest due to hail. 4-6 hl/ha. 'Poor vineyard manager', says Véronique Drouhin. 2004 not produced due to hail but this vintage the fruit that was left did ripen if you waited. Each vine had one cluster or none, so the fruit was ripe. A little peppery, some sweet spice, then a touch austere but all in balance. Lovely finesse and harmony without any attempt to flatter. Peppery, spicy, long aftertaste. Drinking range: 2017 - 2024 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2015)
Medium red. Musky aromas of redcurrant, mocha and minerals. Round and sweet but nicely delineated too, with strawberry and smoky mineral flavors carrying through nicely on the persistent finish, where the tannins are dusty but not quite dry. Drinking range: 2022 - 2031 Rating: 89-91 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Jan 2015)
The 2013 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches was cropped October 10-11, completely destemmed, with a 22-day skin maceration, aged in oak for 14 months. It went through a lot of selection, both in the vineyard, on a vibranting table and optical sorting. Quite deep in color, it has a touch of reduction on the nose, but there is plenty of raspberry preserve and cranberry fruit on the nose. The medium-bodied palate is chewy on the entry with a little angularity, showing a little “toughness” toward the finish that has good length. Maybe this deserves 2-3 years in bottle in order to lose its nascent sinew? Drinking range: 2016 - 2026 Rating: 88 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2014)
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.
A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm
Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.
For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the Côte de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.
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