2013 1er Cru Chevrets Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
50% whole bunch. Almost as open as the Clos des Angles, but with a much denser texture on the palate, compact, a chewy cherry middle with chalky tannins giving a textural component to the long finish Drinking range: 2020 - L&S (Nov 2014)
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(50% whole clusters). There is a top note of menthol to the notably floral-inflected nose that also offers up notes of black cherry, raspberry and a discreet hint of exotic tea. There is excellent density and plenty of palate coating dry extract that adds a sense of volume to the medium weight flavors that deliver very fine length on the utterly delicious and seductive finish. This is perhaps a bit less elegant then usual but it’s lovely all the same. 2021+ Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Apr 2015)
(50% vendange entier; from the bottom of the vineyard, which Rossignol said was not touched by hail): Good bright, dark red. Aromas of dark fruits, mocha and chocolate are accented by pepper and flowers. Silky on entry, then fine-grained but rather rocky and closed in the middle, showing good calcaire tension. Firmly built premier cru, in need of some patience. Drinking range: 2019 - 2027 Rating: 89-91 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Jan 2015)
The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Chevrets includes 50% whole-cluster fruit. It has a tightly wound, much more backward nose than the Clos des Angles ’13 this year. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a gentle grip, a dash of white pepper toward the finish livening things up. Give it a year or two after bottling, by which time it will hopefully have lost its bashful disposition. Drinking range: 2017 - 2022 Rating: 88-90 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Dec 2014)
I loved this last year - was my favourite of the 2012s. 50% whole bunch in 2013 as in 2012. Dark fruit aroma; elegant blackcurrant notes. Sweet on the attack. Gorgeous mid palate; lovely sweet fruit, but not as refined as in 2012; more compact and dense. The freshness is there with the whole bunch and the limestone at the end. The whole bunch to emphasis the limestone freshness. From 2019 Rating: 17.75 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2014)
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
Born in 1974, Nicolas represents the fifth generation of his family in Volnay (a village which seems to be populated almost entirely by families with Rossignol somewhere in the name). He started to make the wines of his 'Rossignol-Jeanniard' family domaine when he was just twenty.
After studies at the Lycée viticole in Beaune, he worked with Joseph Voillot in Volnay, who became a mentor to him, for Louis Latour at their estate in the Ardèche, and for Vieux Télégraphe on Châteauneuf, where he loved the combination of richness and elegance in the wines, which influenced the style of wines he would later want to make himself. He also made wine in Boschendal in South Africa, and for Château la Cardonne in Bordeaux (then managed by the Lafite team).
In 1997, Nico started his own domaine with three hectares of vines inherited from an uncle. After a period in which some of the wines he made were labelled 'Domaine Rossignol-Jeanniard', and some 'Domaine Nicolas Rossignol', he began to buy the fruit from his (Rossignol-Jeanniard) family, and label these simply 'Nicolas Rossignol' (without the 'domaine'). Now the vines (all 16 hectares) are finally in the 'Domaine Nicolas Rossignol', and labelled as such. To handle this sizeable domaine, Nico needed a new winery. Having started with a chaotic assemblage of tanks in a building in the village of Volnay, he had moved to share Ben Leroux's winery on the Beaune ring road, but Nico had dreams of his own place and built his impressive new winery in 2016. A fantastic bespoke build, admittedly in a ZI (Zone Industrielle) on the outskirts of Beaune, which he recognises is not ideal for the 'folklore' aspect, it is a perfect tool for the job, and does have a good view of all 'his' bits of the Côte - from a sort of eyrie on the roof.
Like many Burgundy domaines, the appellations have proliferated as the surface area of the vineyard has increased with lots of little (and some quite large) parcels of vines in Aloxe ('village'), Savigny ('village' and two Premiers Crus), Beaune (three Premiers Crus), Pernand ('village' and one Premier Cru), Pommard (three 'village' wines and six Premiers Crus) and Volnay ('village' and seven Premiers Crus). With two cuvées of Bourgogne Rouge, this adds up to twenty-eight different wines. Like Burgundy more generally, the joy of tasting here is recognising the individual character of each plot, modulated by the conditions of the vintage, of course, but each with their own distinct personality
The viticulture of the domaine is inspired by biodynamics, but Nico is pragmatic, and although no weedkillers are used and the vineyards are maintained by ploughing, he says that there are both good and bad things in biodynamics, and he will use conventional fungicides to combat disease. At harvest time the grapes are picked into eight kilo boxes, and transported to the winery in them to minimise handling. They are then carefully sorted, before either being de-stemmed (but with the berries left intact) before being put in the fermentation vat, or put in directly as whole bunches. Nico uses varying proportions of whole bunch fermentation depending on the type of wine each vineyard gives, and of course on the health and 'ripeness' of the stems. A classic fermentation using the natural yeats on the grapes ensues, with punchdowns (pigeage) and pumpovers (remontage) used to extract flavour from the grapes, or to oxygenate the wine and refine its structure - the amount used judged by tastings throughout the process. After the vatting the free-run juice is separated from the pressed juice - the latter being blended back as required if necessary after tasting. The wine is put into barrel by gravity (with the amount of new wood between 0 and 50%), and aged for between ten and twenty months depending on the wine and the vintage, always on the lees without racking. The wood and the amount of heat used in making the barrels is also modulated for each wine. The malolactic fermentation is delayed for six months to increase aromatic complexity and structure to the wines. At the end of the ageing the wines are racked and blended in tank, before bottling without fining or filtration.
Nicolas makes deeply-coloured, flavourful wines. He is always keen to rubbish the generalisation that Pommard makes structured 'masculine' wines, as opposed to Volnay's supposedly 'feminine' ones, and proves his point with Pommards grown on clay and Volnays like his punchily structured 'Ronceret'. Each wine is very site-specific. Great winemaking here from a domaine that is really hitting its stride after many years of disappointing yields caused by hail and frost.
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