2014 1er Cru Vaillons Domaine Moreau-Naudet
Denser more concentrated nose of oyster shell, peach and citrus, touch of fennel. Palate again is pure and bright, gorgeous ripe citrus fruit, juicy, good fruit weight and length. L&S (Jan 2016)
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(from 10% Séchet and 90% Roncières; the two are vinified separately and then blended). A classic Chablis nose offers up notes of sea breeze, citrus, spice and discreet floral nuances. There is good richness to the energetic, concentrated and stony middle weight flavors that are serious and moderately austere on the saline-suffused and mildly austere finish. This too is really quite good. 2021+ Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2017)
Very discreet on the nose. And again extremely tight. This tastes as though it may have been picked pretty early? Hard work at the moment. It may well all come right eventually, but is difficult to appreciate now. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 16+ Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2016)
Rating: 92 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com
The domaine will continue under Stéphane's wife Virginie, but we will miss the bright star that was Stéphane Moreau-Naudet, who died suddenly in September 2016. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat, who recommended him to us many years ago, was a consummate vigneron, and craftsman in the cellar, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and they use no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Wines full of racy character and complexity.
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