CLOS DES LAMBRAYS
2014 Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
| Village | Morey Saint Denis |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13.5% |
| Vineyard | Clos des Lambrays |
50% new wood, 100% whole bunch fermentation. Very complete nose, all in harmony, bright ruby with a blue-edge - it just looks as fresh as it tastes. Bursting with flavour from raspberry top-note to rippling tannic body and dark spicy undertones. Lots of energy and drive. 'On a quand même envie de le boire' says Thierry, with typical understatement. Drinking range: 2024 - L&S (Nov 2015)
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Not the deepest in colour, but vibrant with perfumed little red fruits, and some white pepper, so very much a Thierry Brouin wine, attractively enticing. Much more wealth of fruit here than expected, covering the slightly firm finish to kick on through. Drink from 2024-2030. Tasted: June 2024. Drinking range: 2024 - 2030 Rating: **** Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jun 2024)
The 2014 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, made by Thierry Brouin, has a typically leafy bouquet. There is something autumnal about the aromatics, and some red fruits are extant but certainly moving into their secondary phase. The palate is medium-bodied with an austere, slightly meaty opening. This is not a concentrated Lambrays by any means. It's a little dry and mealy in the mouth, though it has charm. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030 Rating: 89 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2024)
The 2013 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, from magnum, I assume it is my first time tasting it as for some reason, I do not have a note for this in bottle. It has a fragrant bouquet that shows more fruit intensity than the 2013, scents of raspberry, crushed strawberry, undergrowth and bay leaf all complemented by the underlying stemminess instead of dominated by it. The palate is very well defined with fine tannin, certainly old fashioned when compared to the 2014 Clos de Tart, yet poised and fanning out gently on the understated but still quite compelling finish. A joy. Drinking range: 2020 - 2045 Rating: 93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2019)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.
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