2015 CLOS DES LAMBRAYS Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays, Lea & Sandeman

CLOS DES LAMBRAYS

2016 Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Nuits
Village Morey Saint Denis
Classification Grand Cru
ABV 13.5%
Vineyard Clos des Lambrays

Nice nose. Gently rich and warm. Nice woody spices. Touch smokey. On Palate there is a younger feel. Sculpted and sprightly with juicy acidity. Lovely ripe fruit, but so much more fresh and tart. Great texture, wood seems to fit in so well. Deliciously integrated. Tricky season there was the frost - although not a big deal in Morey then it stayed cold. June was tricky. Some Mildew which killed a lot of fruit that had survived the Frost! By July and August conditions were excellent - and all turned out nice. Assemblage was done in March 2017 after the Malolactic had finished - so from barrel we could taste the final blend already. 85% whole Bunch. 30% more available in 2016 than 2015. L&S (Oct 2017)


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Since 2014 LVMH have owned this estate, whose main house is just across the road from Clos de Tart, where Jacques Devauges was once winemaker. He took over from Thierry Bruin in 2019. Bruin will have made this particularly successful wine in a vintage that was also especially successful for Devauges when he made the wine at Clos de Tart – despite hail, frost and mildew! Clos des Lambrays is not quite a monopole, thanks to the tiny holding there of Taupenot-Merme.

Transparent garnet – one of the lightest wines so far. Very pretty and extremely fragrant and winning. Gentle with resolved tannins and perhaps a little more freshness than some but a real charmer. After some raspberry fruit there is an undertow of structure and perhaps a note of orange peel? Lots of juicy fruit but with real delicacy. Quite deceptive because you could drink this straight away but it clearly has the structure for a long life. 13.5% Drink 2024 – 2043

Drinking range: 2024 - 2043 Rating: 18 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (May 2024)

The 2016 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is extremely well defined on the nose with blacker fruit than its peers, wet limestone scents percolating through the red berry fruit, somehow sedate and effortless. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, nigh perfect acidity, a touch of fleshiness towards the finish. It is not the most ambitious Grand Cru, yet in terms of sheer pleasure, this hits the spot. Drink over the next 15 to 20 years. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2016 tasting. Drinking range: 2023 - 2045 Rating: 93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Oct 2019)

A racy style, defined by bracing acidity propelling the black currant, blackberry, iron, earth and spice flavors to a lingering conclusion. Balanced and full of energy, this needs time to really settle in and reveal all its facets in a harmonious way. Drinking range: 2022 - 2043 Rating: 96 Bruce Sanderson, The Wine Spectator (Feb 2019)

Domaine des Lambrays

The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.

The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.

It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.

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