BOURGOGNE CÔTE D'OR BLANC
2017 Vieilles Vignes Domaine Rémi Jobard
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| Other | Practising Organic, Bio-dynamic |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
| Village | Bourgogne Côte d'Or Blanc |
| ABV | 13% |
This got frosted a little in 2017, but this is a bounce back up in volume of total yield after the near catastrophe of 2016. Delicate for now, but in the mouth, it is positive, suave, fat and supple, and steadily grows in interest and complexity with green fruit, then pears and them yellow fruit sweetness and accent following. Lots of fat. Stays bright and fine, concentrated and very long. From several parcels in Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault, all of which abut vineyards classified at village level. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026 L&S (Nov 2018)
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A more typical nose consists of pear, apple and citrus zest aromas that lead to more voluminous and denser middle weight flavors that also deliver better length on the balanced and nicely complex finale. This is potentially quite good plus it should age well. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 86-89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)
From parcels that all touch the appellation of Meursault, the 2017 Bourgogne Côte d'Or Vieilles Vignes wafts from the glass with pretty aromas of green apples, pear, fresh pastry and white currants. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, elegantly satiny and lively, with excellent balance and intensity. This is an unusually serious Bourgogne which should be worth following for a decade. Rating: 87-89 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
Lime cordial notes on the nose. Interesting labelling compared with the regular Bourgogne Blanc. Solid, chalky-textured stuff gives a very solid Côte d'Or impression. Drinking range: 2019 - 2022 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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