CAPELA

The 2017 Capela da Quinta do Vesuvio is the fourth release named after the quinta's chapel. Its vines were one of the first planted after the phylloxera crisis and the grape varieties were co-fermented in the same lagaretes (a small lagare). It is a serious step up from the Quinta do Vesuvio: much more finesse and delineation, slightly more mineral-rich blackberry and bilberry fruit, veins of crème de cassis and camphor. I adore the harmony of this Vintage Port. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannin that caress the mouth. The acidity is beautifully judged, a somehow effortless fortified wine with a silky-textured, sensual finish with layers of luxuriant black fruit laced with clove and cracked black pepper. What a brilliant Vintage Port from the Symington family. Production is 5,184 bottles. Drinking range: 2030 - 2065 Rating: 96 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2019)

Black almost to the rim. Super-concentrated black fruit, so intense it draws you ineluctably in. Intense wild blackberry and elderberry, smells almost sour in its tangy fruit. Thick-pile and so rich on the palate. Incredible concentration but neither over-ripeness nor heaviness. Glorious fruit supported by compact but almost soft tannins that are so fully ripe they seem to become the fruit. Drinking range: 2030 - 2070 Rating: 19 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jun 2019)

This is an old-vine Port with two-thirds coming from ancient ones. Bark, black tea, crushed grapes and mahogany. Big and grippy. Old, traditional styled Port with incredible depth and power. Big yet polished tannins. This is foot-trodden. Co-fermented. Real deal. 470 cases. Try after 2030. Rating: 99 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (May 2019)