We tasted this again when looking at the 2018s in tank with Virginie, in October 2019, and this is in a very different register to those wines. Much tighter and more classical - the very model of a village Chablis. Bottled in April 2019. Completely delicious and pure and long. L&S (Oct 2019)
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The 2017 Chablis is absolutely gorgeous. The bouquet alone is so inviting, but that is just a prelude, as the 2017 has so much to offer. Orange peel, lemon confit and floral overtones abound, but it is the wine silkiness and grace that impress most. The 2017 is quite simply a wine of total finesse. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029 Rating: 90 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Feb 2020)
A slightly riper nose features mildly exotic aromas of muscat, white peach and just enough Chablis typicity to be attractive. There is fine volume to the nicely concentrated medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a refreshing, saliva-inducing and citrus-tinged finale that is just a bit firmer. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 88 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2020)
More concentration than the Petit Chablis with real bite and a bit of a future. Drinking range: 2019 - 2023 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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