2017 Domaine Moreau-Naudet
We tasted this again when looking at the 2018s in tank with Virginie, in October 2019, and this is in a very different register to those wines. Much tighter and more classical - the very model of a village Chablis. Bottled in April 2019. Completely delicious and pure and long. L&S (Oct 2019)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2017 Chablis is absolutely gorgeous. The bouquet alone is so inviting, but that is just a prelude, as the 2017 has so much to offer. Orange peel, lemon confit and floral overtones abound, but it is the wine silkiness and grace that impress most. The 2017 is quite simply a wine of total finesse. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029 Rating: 90 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Feb 2020)
A slightly riper nose features mildly exotic aromas of muscat, white peach and just enough Chablis typicity to be attractive. There is fine volume to the nicely concentrated medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a refreshing, saliva-inducing and citrus-tinged finale that is just a bit firmer. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 88 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2020)
More concentration than the Petit Chablis with real bite and a bit of a future. Drinking range: 2019 - 2023 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)
Virginie Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an incfluence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence. The cellar-work is also masterful, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Virginie is proving to have what it takes to build on Stéphane's legacy, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, are as fine as they have ever been.
Just when you think Burgundy is getting a tad expensive, some other upward pressures are applied to prices - small yields and a weak Sterling are the current factors. Luckily for you, there are merchants out there (or here, to be precise) with the nouse to seek out good value even in a region where good value can feel hard to come by. Here's a fine selection of our Very Good Value red and whites - not necessarily cheap enough to tempt the less discerning away from the discount supermarket but it does mean that us ordinary mortals can still afford to drink Burgundy.
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