|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
The Champgains has a taut nose. Certainly not taut on the palate. The wine has a sweet entry. It is full and weighty on the palate. This is less about the energy and vigour and more about the sheer volume and density of juice. Voluptuous. L&S (Nov 2018)
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(from 10+ year old vines). Relatively firm reduction supplants the fruit today so I would advise allowing this some time to breathe first. More interesting are the attractively textured and sleeker if slightly less concentrated medium weight flavors that display good delineation on the solidly complex and persistent finale. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)
The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champgains is one of the younger-vine cuvées in the cellar, but it has turned out well, offering notes of crisp peach, white flowers, honeycomb and lemon. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, chalky but open-knit, with bright acids and a pure but simple profile. It will drink well out of the gates. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 88 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.
The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.
Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has his own plane which he flies to all corners of France, used keep and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.
Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman), During harvest Adrien is now the one in the winery while Laurent takes charge of the picking team. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.
Read more about Adrien here in this recent Forbes article here.
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