CHÂTEAU PIBRAN

68% Merlot this year, usually 50%, and 32% Cabernet Sauvignon. 18 months in barrel (50% new). Deep crimson. A little smoky then rich in black fruit on the palate. Smooth texture but a little tough on the finish. Drinking range: 2024 - 2032 Rating: 16 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2018)

There was just a little frost that affected one parcel of Cabernet Sauvignon at Pibran this year. As a result, this is the highest proportion of Merlot in the blend ever at 68%, blended with 32% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep garnet-purple, the 2017 Pibran gives lovely redcurrants and blackcurrants on the nose with a plummy undercurrent and hints of violets, dark chocolate and wild thyme. The palate is medium-bodied, fine, refreshing and delicately played with plenty of expressive red and black fruits and an herbal lift on the finish. Rating: 87-89 Lisa Perrotti-Brown, RobertParker.com (Apr 2018)

Incorporating more Merlot than normal (it’s normally close to an even split of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon), the 2017 Château Pibran checks in as 68% Merlot and 32% Cabernet Sauvignon that will spend 18 months in 50% new oak. It has juicy black cherry and raspberry fruit to go with medium-bodied depth and richness, fine, silky tannin, and a notable sense of elegance and purity. Pauillac was the strong point in the Médoc and this is a solid effort. Rating: 88-90 Jeb Dunnuck, www.jebdunnuck.com (Apr 2018)

A fresh red with lots of white pepper and salt. Blackcurrants and blueberries. Full-bodied, tight and focused. Ripe tannins. Nice sweetness at the end. Bright finish. Rating: 91-92 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2018)

Solid, featuring plum cake and fig notes at the core, with a finish streaked with warm tobacco and charcoal notes. Relatively soft and plush in feel Rating: 89-92 James Molesworth, The Wine Spectator (Apr 2018)

I tasted this barrel sample at Château Pichon-Baron with Christian Seely, who was an excellent guide to the vintage in Pauillac, with the aid of a huge map on which all the Pibran and Pichon-Baron vineyards were marked out. This had me running around the counter every time Christian wanted to indicate something on the map, but that is how you learn about the vintage. Perhaps unsurprisingly, being slightly further west, the Pibran vines did not completely escape the frost (cue run round to map to see where Pibran vines are located), and one slope of Cabernet Sauvignon was extensively damaged. In total 15% was lost to frost, although this figure applies to all the AXA Millésimes vineyards in Pauillac. No second-generation fruit was used for any of their wines. The Merlot harvest here took place on September 22nd and 23rd, while the reduced crop of Cabernet Sauvignon was picked on October 3rd. As a consequence of the vagaries of the vintage the blend has more Merlot than is usual, at 68%, with 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, when the norm is about 50% of each. It has attractive fruit on the nose (cue run back round counter to taste wine), with grilled cherries, with a wrapping of toasty oak cigar. A very pretty start on the palate mirroring the nose, with confit cherry in an oak wrapping, but the fruit stands up well to it, showing a creamed concentration, underpinned with ripe and finely grained tannins, and fresh acidity. A lovely conviction to it, complete, fresh, harmonious and bold. The élevage will be in 50% new oak and 50% second-fill barrels for about 18 months. Rating: 91-93 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2018)