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2017 FONSECA, Lea & Sandeman

FONSECA

2017

Origin Portugal, Port
District Vintage Port
ABV 20%

Wonderful aromatic precision - floral, lush dark-cherry freshness. Tasting this after the Taylor's it is hard not to feel the more meaty, more hairy side and fear it is less sophisticated. That may be true but it is certainly no less joyous. In fact that complex middle - full of sweet earth, raisiny paste and deep cherry fruit is delicious. Intense and well done. Dates and ripe black damsons give a deep richness. There is good intensity here. Perhaps not elegant yet this is a winner, deeply enjoyable. L&S (May 2019)


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Picking began at Quinta do Panascal on September 6, the two other quintas in Pinhão that form the 2017 Fonseca Vintage Port, Cruzeiro and Santo António picked on 10 and 17 September respectively. One of the deepest, most opaque color amongst the new Port alumni, it has one of the most backward, almost recalcitrant noses that demands a lot of aeration. It gradually opens to reveal blackberry, melted tar, thyme, clove and violet aromas that are well defined, if maybe just missing the same breeding as Taylor’s. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. This is fresh and detailed, a slightly more structured Fonseca than expected, quite strict at first with good grip and a lightly spiced, precise finish. Powerful and long on the aftertaste, you can feel this Fonseca 60 seconds after the wine has exited. It deserves 10-15 years in bottle. Excellent, but patience required. The most enigmatic of the 2017 Vintage Ports. Total production is 8,100 cases. Drinking range: 2033 - 2080 Rating: 95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2019)

Deepest purple. Wild, perfectly ripe small black berries like elderberry but also the lush sweetness of ripe blackberries plus a stony, rocky edge and just a touch charry. Lush, plush and exotic on the palate, deep-pile, compact, smooth tannins, just enough freshness to balance the rich generosity. The finish is beautifully dry-tasting, the tannins melting on the long finish. Drinking range: 2027 - 2057 Rating: 17.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jun 2019)

Fonseca

Manuel Pedro Guimaraens bought out the Fonseca family's share of Fonseca & Monteiro in 1822, sold with the proviso that the Company would always bear the Fonseca name, and the Guimaraens family have controlled Fonseca ever since, even after absorbtion by Taylors, Fladgate & Yeatman in 1948. Not long after taking control of the Company, due to his support of the deposed King Pedro IV, Manuel was forced to flee Portugal (allegedly in an empty wine barrel) and settled in London, from where Fonseca was run until 1927 when the Guimaraens family returned to Portugal. David Guimaraens is the winemaker today, not only at Fonseca but Taylors too. In recent years especially, Fonseca and Taylors have elevated themselves clearly above their rivals for the sheer quality and prestige of their Vintage Ports.

This wine isn't currently part of a mixed case, but you can always browse our full selection of mixed cases here.
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