MOREY SAINT DENIS
2017 Vieilles Vignes Domaine Stéphane Magnien
|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
Also new this year, as he has split out the Vieilles Vignes aspect that he used to include in another wine. He is making it separately this year to highlight the more powerful and intense, blacker-fruited juice these glorious old vines give. It certainly is darker in feel. More blackberry and sloe berry notes. Nice and rich though rather than being 'dark and bitter' - there is fine tannin that adds some tension here and balances that good enticing riper weight of fruit. Intense for sure, but so clearly still has the house style of a delicate touch. Really interesting new cuvée. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027 L&S (Jan 2019)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Ripe, dark-fruited and just a touch peppery and balanced by a moreish freshness. Finely textured and has everything you want from Morey – that mix of fragrant and peppery. Persistent too. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 Rating: 16.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
A selection of great drinking from the evocative villages of the Côte de Nuits.
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