Tasted after the Margotés this is less open and generous on the nose. More considered, somehow. On the palate it is tightly wound and retains lots of pep. Intensely tight fruit character which unwraps into some softer peachy streaks and a touch of riper, creamier feeling. Some creamy 'carambar' notes too add another dimension. There is lots to taste and feel - and it is all underpinned well by the unflinching line of racy acidity. Their plot here was planted in 1992 - and is mostly limestone. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025 L&S (Nov 2018)
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Quite rich nose and then tight fruit on the palate. Needs a bit of time to open out but admirably tight and ambitious. Drinking range: 2020 - 2024 Rating: 16+ Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2019)
The 2017 Rully, 1er Cru La Pucelle has gone up £20 (per case), but it still looks like a great buy. A leading light in Rully, this is a wine with a longer life ahead of it than the two proceeding vintages. Rating: 17+ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com(Jan 2019)
Domaine Paul et Marie Jacqueson
Marie, named 'Young Winemaker of the Year' at the Hospices de Beaune as long ago as 2010, represents the third generation of Jacquesons to be making wine here. She was joined at the domaine by her brother Pierre in 2015. Her grandfather Henri started off in 1946 with a small parcel of Aligoté. Henri was quite a pioneer at a time when Rully was not well-known, the vineyards having been substantially abandoned after the first world war. Paul, Henri's son and father of the current generation, was responsible for the drive to quality which gained the domaine its reputation. He still active in support of his children.
The domaine consists now of 13 hectares of vines, mostly in Rully, but also parcels in Mercurey and Bouzeron. The grapes are harvested by hand and vinified in classical fashion, before an élevage in barrel (up to 25% new wood). Under Paul, and now by his children, the domaine has become adept at a sophisticated use of barrels, the élevage here is key to the quality they consistently achieve, and this rubs off on the ,em>negociant 'Cuvée Sélection' which is always beautifully finished.
We have always loved the whites, and especially the Pucelle, which is a model of what a great Rully can be year after year, but the reds are increasingly not to be missed - red Burgundies at sensible prices which have crunchy fresh Pinot fruit, and an excellent velvet feel.
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