2018 1er Cru Troësmes Domaine Denis Pommier
The Pommiers used to label this as Beauroy, but Troësmes is a more specific spot within Beauroy, known locally to be the very best plot and quite distinctive. Great citrus lift here. Then some nice fraicheur from the ground. Fruit balanced perfectly by the gorgeous mineral lift. There is focus and tension - what more do you want? A great Chablis. Smart - powerful and clean as a whistle - but with nice depth too: a 'profondeur’ in the middle which is normal for Troësmes. Finishes with the whiff of the seashore. L&S (Nov 2019)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2018 Chablis Troesme sees 75% of the production matured in wood. That certainly is evident on the nose, which bears more resemblance to the Côte d’Or than to Chablis. The palate, though, is well balanced and fresh, offering crisp orange peel and a touch of pineapple, and nicely detailed on the finish. It is just missing some terroir expression. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028 Rating: 88 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Sep 2020)
Solid, appley, dense and lively. Lots to chew on. A long-term prospect. Just little earthbound. Drinking range: 2026 - 2036 Rating: 16.5+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2020)
Domaine Denis Pommier
Founded when the Pommiers inherited 2 hectares of vines in 1990. Isabelle and Denis bottled their first wine in 1994 and now have 23 hectares of vineyards, which are certified organic (which sadly cost them dearly in terms of lost crop in 2016 and 2017) and run according to biodynamic principles. Further reading is available in the form of Denis' book 'Les Larmes de Ma Vigne', published in 2020.
The Petit Chablis is a model of brisk freshness - made entirely in stainless steel - while the Premier Crus in benefit from a small amount of barrel-fermentation and élevage. The two named 'lieu-dits' of Chablis 'village', Les Reinettes and Croix aux Moines, are about a hectare in total. The Troësmes is within the larger premier cru 'Beauroy'. The Pommiers think this 'best bit' deserves to be identified by its correct name. It is relatively rounder, while the Côte de Léchet is the one for fans of the slatier, crystalline side of minerality. Keep either of the premiers crus for four to six years.
Petit Chablis 9.5 ha (+ 2 planted not yet in production)
Chablis Reinettes and Chablis Croix aux Moines 1ha - a north-facing slope which catches the sun late in the day. Reinettes is on pure Kimmeridgian clay, under Croix au Moines, which is on a thinner soil at the top of the hill, both in the same sector as Côte de Léchet.
Chablis 1er cru Troësmes 1.8ha - white marl, facing due south.
Chablis 1er cru Cote de Léchet 1.1 ha - chalky, south-east-facing.
Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume .8 ha - a very steep hot south-west facing slope.
Chablis, the very archetype of dry white wine. Whether accompanying something from the deep, or a light lunch, or enjoyed elegantly with friends, the crisp minerality of a Chablis is hard to beat. And, of course, it is ideal aperitif served nicely chilled before a good dinner.
Looking for a guilt free, sustainable line up to celebrate Christmas this year, then this is the case for you. All of these producers are certified organic and work to produce wines in a sustainable way. With such attention to detail in every aspect of what they do, you won't be surprised to hear that these are quite brilliant wines that deliver great bang for your buck.
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