2018 Vieilles Vignes Les Pargues Domaine Moreau-Naudet
15-25HL/HA is normal here, always a tiny yield. These 70 year old vines give gorgeous but intense juice - and just not much of it anymore. Brisker, more energy - a spritz here. Really lovely sherberty-like pep. Lemon juice - less full on - less ample feel - but this is good. Fresh and delicious. L&S (Nov 2019)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2018 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Les Pargues is a rich wine with all of the gravitas that comes from the old vines; it is a wine of real substance. Tropical fruit, exotic floral notes and spice all emerge but it is the wine's vertical power and depth that stand out most. Rating: 89-91 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Jan 2020)
Virginie Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an incfluence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence. The cellar-work is also masterful, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Virginie is proving to have what it takes to build on Stéphane's legacy, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, are as fine as they have ever been.
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