Oh dear. A combination of frost, hail and the drying effect of the heatwave all took their toll on the yields here, and there's even less than usual. The resulting wine is quite a thing, but it's a shame there's not more. Rich and intense at the same time, saline and mineral, yet fat and generous. Extraordinary length. Drinking range: 2023 - 2035 L&S (Oct 2020)
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A tiny crop of just 6hl from 0.60ha. the wine is being made in three stainless steel barrel. It is pale yellow in colour with a, soft rich, but enticing nose, which might suggest oak only there is none! Instead the, soft richness of the vintage is dominating. Very long finish though still with, some toasty character. Tasted: September 2020 *** Rating: 91 - 94 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was a vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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