|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
Always a superb Charmes, and this is a great example. Very fresh and distinctive fruit, and there's real lift here along with the obvious Charmes creamy weight and richness of texture. Drinking range: 2032 - 2048 L&S (Oct 2020)
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The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru leaps from the glass with a mélange of red and blueberry fruit, wilted iris petals and a touch of inkwell. I admire the delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, juicy red berry fruit laced with marmalade and blood orange. Perhaps the palate does not quite deliver the sophistication of the nose, though it feels long and quite corpulent on the finish. Enjoy over the next 12-15 years. Drinking range: 2023 - 2037 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Moderately ripe aromas of black cherry liqueur, cassis and earth display pretty floral top notes. The rich, attractively textured and intense large-scaled flavors possess equally good power and punch on the impressively lengthy finish. This isn’t an elegant wine though it’s not overtly rustic either and while I like the complexity and persistence, I underscore that this is very structured. Drinking range: 2036 - Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2021)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly
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