2019 1er Cru Morgeot Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
They have not made a separate cuvée of Fairendes this year - they were among the few to put frost-protection 'candles' out and saved themselves from considerable losses, but they did not put any in Fairendes as it 'never' freezes. But it did in 2019. So what little they did harvest has been vinified together with the parcel in Petit Clos. Fatly concentrated, a very Morgeot style and very attractive. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028 L&S (Oct 2020)
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(from Petit Clos and Fairendes). This is aromatically similar to the Champs Gain but even more floral inflected. The round and equally suave larger-scaled flavors are at once rich and generously proportioned if slightly more structured on the manifestly powerful finish that isn’t refined but I like the depth and persistence. Drinking range: 2027 - Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2021)
The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru has a straightlaced bouquet with touches of honeysuckle and melted wax, though I would have liked more mineralité. The palate is well balanced with a waxy opening, but it just loses momentum halfway through and feels static on the finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2027 Rating: 89 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
This year, the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot incorporates the domaine's fruit from lieu-dit Fairendes, and the resulting cuvée is very nice, wafting from the glass with notes of pear, beeswax, white flowers and wheat toast. Medium to full-bodied, bright and satiny, it's tightly wound and concentrated, with racy acids and a long, tangy finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2042 Rating: 92+ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)
Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.
The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012.
Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has his own plane which he flies to all corners of France, used keep and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.
Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman), During harvest Adrien is now the one in the winery while Laurent takes charge of the picking team. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.
Read more about Adrien here in this recent Forbes article here.
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