MEURSAULT
2019 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Rémi Jobard
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| Other | Certified Organic |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
| Village | Meursault |
| Classification | 1er Cru |
| ABV | 13.5% |
| Vineyard | Charmes |
Gorgeous interplay of citrus and white-fleshed fruit here, appetising purity and supple length. Drinking range: 2025 - 2034 L&S (Oct 2020)
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(from young vines in Charmes-Dessus). Ripe aromas include both white and yellow peach with background hints of citrus and acacia. There is better volume to the round and caressing medium-bodied flavors that aren’t as fine but offer better depth and persistence on the citrusy, very dry and impressively persistent finish. This solid effort is presently very compact and will need at least some forbearance. Drinking range: 2027 - Rating: 92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2021)
The 2019 Meursault Charmes 1er Cru is lacking some complexity on the nose, ironically missing the "charm" of the Poruzots. The palate is rounded in texture with tropical fruit: pineapple, peach and star fruit, moderate levels of acidity with a straightforward but pleasant finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Les Charmes is my pick of the elite Meursaults from Jobard because it is so flamboyant and over the top! All of the wines from this portfolio look amazing and with Sous le Velle (£200 ib per case of 6 bottles) and Chevalières (£260 ib per case of 6 bottles) doing a great job in the lieu-dit category, and they are both worth a look if you don’t want to drop £1000 on a case of wine! If you are feeling flush then Les Charmes is the wine to go for because Les Genevrières looked a little too big for me! Les Charmes manages to gain perfect balance with oak and fruit in harmony. Rating: 18.5+ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2021)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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