2019 1er Cru Les Vignes Rondes Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Les Vignes Rondes|
Rémi gave us this to taste after the Volnay Santenots and you can see why - it has a greater density and earthy grip - but the precision of the aromas and the thick feel are no so far away. Lots of whole bunches in the fermentation here too, and the combination of the ripeness of the year and the elegance that the stems bring is very successful. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030 L&S (Nov 2020)
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A spicier and slightly more elegant nose is also more floral suffused on the red cherry and plum scents. The rich and equally seductively textured medium-bodied flavors possess a bit more restraint while displaying a touch of youthful austerity on the firmer and grippier finish. While qualitatively similar to the Santenots, these two wines are quite different. Drinking range: 2026 - Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2021)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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