MOREY SAINT DENIS
2019 Grains Fins Domaine Stéphane Magnien
|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
Quite young vines here (12/13 years old), but well-chosen plants. elegant from its mineral soil - it's on the Gevrey side, but with lots of limestone, and it's very light and lifted, beautifully fine, with really nice grippy fruit-filled succulent tannins. Drinking range: 2026 - 2032 L&S (Oct 2020)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2019 Morey Saint-Denis Grains Fins has a vibrant perfumed bouquet of blueberry and raspberry that has a real spring in its step. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy, confit-like opening, maybe just showing a little over-ripeness on the candied finish, but it has charm and approachability. Not bad, but it pales against the arresting Faconnières. Drinking range: 2022 - 2027 Rating: 87-89 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Made from young vines in Crais Gillon and the lower part of Chenevery. Glowing purple, with fresh energetic fruit, really lovely in the style of supplying immediate charm. There is no especial weight but there is length. Skilfully handled, with tension at the finish Tasted: November 2020 4/5 stars Rating: 89-92 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
Cask sample. Transparent crimson. Sample is verging on oxidised on the nose. Just not fresh or frank enough and a bit awkward on the end. Drinking range: 2026 - 2035 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
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