2020 1er Cru Charmes Domaine Rémi Jobard

Grapes Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Meursault
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard Charmes

A sweet edge to the attack here, juice like the Luraule follows, and here there's more power and mineral intensity. Sherbety, mineral, sleek and long. L&S (Nov 2021)

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(from young vines in Charmes-Dessus). Restrained if elegant and very pretty aromas are comprised by notes of essence of poached pear, spice, just sliced citrus and a whiff of acacia blossom. Here too the mediumbodied flavors are both caressing and seductive before tightening up on the sappy, chalky and equally dry finale that is shaped by lemon-tinged acidity. This beauty of a Charmes is quite firm and will need the better part of a decade to realize its full potential. Drinking range: 2028 - Rating: 93 Allen Meadows, (Jun 2022)

Pale lemon and lime, the bouquet of the Charmes offers significantly more weight than any of the village cuvees, with the faintest of positive reductions, not especially a feature at this domaine. Fine density of white pears with some yellower plum notes, lightly saline at the finish, very attractively balanced and persistent. Tasted: 10/1/2021 Rating: **** Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Dec 2021)

Domaine Rémi Jobard

Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.

Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.

Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.

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