CHÂTEAU DURFORT VIVENS

You’ll find several Cabernet-dominant blends in classified Médoc estates in 2021, like this near-100% example (97%, with a slice of Merlot that was affected by both fruit set and frost). It translates into an attractive deep plum colour, with violet reflections, and a purity to the blueberry and raspberry fruits, far removed from the solar aromatics we have got used to. Cool vintage signatures abound with undergrowth and liqourice bud, and similarities to good vintages of the 1980s in terms of balance and tannic frame. I have been a huge fan of Durfort in recent years, and this has plenty of potential for ageing. Plenty of adapting in the vineyard to achieve this result, including leaving grass and cereal cover throughout to increase water stress. Eric Boissenot consultant. 35hl/h yield. Harvest September 24 harvest to October 21 (later even than the 2010). 70% new oak and the rest amphoras. Drinking range: 2026 - 2038 Rating: 93 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2022)

The 2021 Durfort-Vivens, picked from September 24 until October 18, the latest ever, also contains the highest amount of Cabernet ever, at 97%. Gonzague Lurton told me that biodynamie has nudged the blend naturally toward the variety. Matured in 30% amphorae and 70% new oak, it presents a well-defined nose of perfumed pressed iris flower filtering through the lattice of black fruit, touches of peony emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, and like the Ferrière, almost Pauillac-like albeit, leading to an elegant and quite understated finish. Drinking range: 2025 - 2045 Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2022)

The 2021 Durfort-Vivens offers a compelling mix of Cabernet aromatics and notable textural richness. There's tremendous weight, depth and intensity here. Blueberry, lavender, sage, mint and tobacco come together in this potent, deeply structured Cabernet. Inky red fruit, blood orange, mint and exotic spice linger on the substantial finish. Yields were 32 hectoliters per hectare, which is about average, and certainly far better than other vintages where mildew has been a threat, most notably 2018. This is a strong showing from Gonzague Lurton. I should note that Lurton also made his new parcellaire wines, but those aren't shown or sold en primeur, hence their exclusion in this report. Drinking range: 2028 - 2041 Rating: 93-95 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2022)