CHÂTEAU PICHON LALANDE

The 2021 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande needs more coaxing from the glass than previous vintages. Blackberry, juniper and iris flower scents reluctantly unfold, though tasting a second glass, I found the nose more forthcoming. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. The Cabernet is in the driving seat, imparting black fruit, a touch of graphite and chimney soot. Edgy, with a structured and quite serious if slightly short finish. A cerebral proposition for serious Pauillac lovers. Drinking range: 2026 - 2050 Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2022)

Do you want the good news or the bad news first? Let's start with the good. The 2021 Pichon Comtesse is epic and certainly among the great wines of this vintage. Sadly, the coulure and mildew in the first year of organic farming plus dehydration at the end of the growing season took with it fully two thirds of the crop. In other words, there's not much wine to go around. Rich and sumptuous in the glass, yet clocking in at 12.9% alcohol, the 2021 is beautifully layered and totally sensual from the very first taste. Hints of red fruit, flowers, mint, white pepper and dried savory herbs develop with a bit of coaxing. The Cabernet Sauvignon, at 88%, is very high by historical standards. Quite simply, the 2021 is a tour de force from Technical Director Nicolas Glumineau and his team. If there is one wine readers will absolutely jump on en primeur it is Pichon Comtesse. Should the bottled wine turn out as well as this sample, pricing is likely to jump materially because of the tiny production. Don't miss it. Drinking range: 2031 - 2061 Rating: 96-98 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2022)

Concentrated, with mint leaf, black chocolate, cassis and blueberry, spice, and clear tannic hold. This is the highest level of Cabernet Sauvignon in Comtesse since 2013 when it was 100% Cabernet (and 13hl/h yield) and you feel it in the character of the fruit, and the tension through the core. A more serious Comtesse than we have got used to in recent years, without sacrificing the signature finesse and elegance. IPT 76. Tasted twice. Harvest September 22 through to October 6. First year of organic conversion, 60% of production in 1st wine, 15hl/h yield, 3.76ph. 65% new oak for ageing. Drinking range: 2028 - 2043 Rating: 95 Jane Anson, Decanter (May 2022)

This estate is one of the most dynamic in contemporary Bordeaux, so it's no surprise that the 2021 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a terrific wine—though its a very atypical blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot, cropped at a derisory 15 hectoliters per hectare, hints at what a challenging year this was in the vineyards. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of wild berries, blackcurrants, iris, licorice, black truffles, cigar wrapper and sweet soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with beautifully refined tannins, lively acids and a supple but serious profile. It will see 60% new oak and, in all likelihood, a classical élevage of fully 18 months. Rating: 94-95 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Apr 2022)