White Rhône

If you don't know the wines of Condrieu, and given the tiny volumes produced, that is likely to be the case, you owe it to yourself to find out what Viognier tastes like from its homelend here. These wines have that peachy, blossomy, occasionally lychee fruit that is so distinctive, and they also have the freshness and acidity, the herbal nuance and grace which is so often absent in Viogniers grown elsewhere. Don't take too much notice of advice to drink right away either - many of these wines benefit from a year or three in the cellar.


Reviews

‘the quality of the whites is incredibly consistent across all the appellations.’
Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com


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Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux

Founded by Frédéric Caillet, the great-grandfather of brothers Benjamin and David in 1928, and then developed by their father Edmond, the domaine consists of 5.8 hectares of vines above Tupin et Semons, in the southern end of the Côte Rôtie appellation, where the bedrock is gneiss. As they say, they are aiming to make the elegant style of wine which this rocky vineyard produces - and they certainly succeed. The Chana is a cuvée that is simply a 'gourmandise', supple, aromatic, fresh, pure. The Germine and the Maison Rouge are more structured, and while they can be drunk young, they will give their best with some age. The Domaine has also produced a small volume of Condrieu since 2014. The wine-making is gentle, there is 20% whole-bunch in the Germine, but otherwise the grapes are de-stemmed. The Chana is aged in demi-muids, the others in smaller barrels - the Maison Rouge getting 40% new wood.
2016 CONDRIEU Les Caillets Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux

2016 CONDRIEU Les Caillets Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux

75cl bottles, case of 6

Pale green-gold, good acidity and freshness, there's delicate green fruit giving drive to the slightly more exotic notes. Juicy and really rather gorgeous.Pale green-gold, good acidity and freshness, there's delicate green fruit giving drive to the slightly more exotic notes. Juicy and really rather gorgeous. Drinking range: 2018 - 2023L&S(Feb 2018)

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Domaine de la Mordorée

Started in 1986 by the Delorme family, Domaine de la Mordorée has become one of the top estates in the Rhône, with arguably the most consistent quality. The word 'Mordorée', literally 'bronze' or 'golden-brown' is one of the many poetic names for a woodcock, the symbol of the domaine. Other such names include the cuvée names - 'La Belle Voyageuse' (the beautiful traveller), and 'La Dame Rousse' (the russet lady). Founding winemaker Christophe Delorme's objective was to be unintrusive and maintain total respect for his terroir and the fruit it produces, striving to achieve a perfect balance between concentration, terroir and balance.

The domaine consists of 55 Hectares, on 38 different parcels, providing a rich, wide range of soils and micro-climates. The whole domaine has been certified organic since 2007.

Following Christophe's untimely death in 2015, his wife and daughter, Madeleine and Ambre, have taken on the running of the domaine, ably assisted by Rémy Chauvet, who was the cellarmaster under Christophe. As Jeb Dunnuck has put it in the Wine Advocate, 'the estate is obviously still in incredibly capable hands'.

2016 LIRAC Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Blanc Domaine de la Mordorée

2016 LIRAC Cuvée de la Reine des Bois Blanc Domaine de la Mordorée

75cl bottles, case of 12

30% Grenache Blanc, 20% Clairette, 10% Roussanne, 10% Viognier, 10% Bourboulenc, 10% Marsanne, 10% Picpoul. Peach, green apple, soft acid with furry texture on the palate, like peach skin. Good30% Grenache Blanc, 20% Clairette, 10% Roussanne, 10% Viognier, 10% Bourboulenc, 10% Marsanne, 10% Picpoul. Peach, green apple, soft acid with furry texture on the palate, like peach skin. Good complexity and interest on the finish. Drinking range: 2017 - 2018 Rating: 16.5 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Feb 2018)

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Domaine Pierre Gaillard

Pierre Gaillard's passion for wine-making developed at an early age when he was discovered ploughing in the vineyard with a plough horse when only twelve years old. After studying oenology at Montpelier he went on to work for a large estate in Côte Rôtie where he steeped himself in the 'terroirs' and traditions of this famous vineyard. In 1981 he bought his own vines in St Joseph and revived the 'Clos de Cuminaille', an ancient vineyard dating back to Roman times. Since then he has bought vines in both Côte Rôtie and Condrieu, and his family have continued to develop the business.
Domaine-Pierre-Gaillard
2016 VIOGNIER Les Gendrines Côtes du Rhône Domaine Pierre Gaillard

2016 VIOGNIER Les Gendrines Côtes du Rhône Domaine Pierre Gaillard

75cl bottles, case of 6

Floral, apricot and peach skins, delicate honey on the nose, with opulence as well as a bright freshness, lovely stone fruit fleshiness. There is creamy touch to the supple palate, which is alsoFloral, apricot and peach skins, delicate honey on the nose, with opulence as well as a bright freshness, lovely stone fruit fleshiness. There is creamy touch to the supple palate, which is also floral and bright with great length, a true baby Condrieu.L&S(Feb 2018)

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2016 CONDRIEU Domaine Pierre Gaillard

2016 CONDRIEU Domaine Pierre Gaillard

75cl bottles, case of 6

Superb openness to the nose – talcum powder, apricot juice, peach skin. Great definition and punch here, with lovely creamy persistence on the finish and enough acid to give structure to the generousSuperb openness to the nose – talcum powder, apricot juice, peach skin. Great definition and punch here, with lovely creamy persistence on the finish and enough acid to give structure to the generous flesh. Drinking range: 2017 - 2020 Rating: 17 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Nov 2017)

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2016 CONDRIEU l'Octroi Domaine Pierre Gaillard

2016 CONDRIEU l'Octroi Domaine Pierre Gaillard

75cl bottles, case of 6

The l'Octroi has even more weight and rich floral and peachy fruit, but also more fresh acidity and lemon verbena zip so that it is at once unctuous and juicy and moreish. Just gorgeous.The l'Octroi has even more weight and rich floral and peachy fruit, but also more fresh acidity and lemon verbena zip so that it is at once unctuous and juicy and moreish. Just gorgeous. Drinking range: 2018 - 2020L&S(Feb 2018)

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Domaine Rémi Niero

One of the original domaines of the appellation, and centred on the oldest vineyard, above Condrieu itself and with a decent holding in the Coteau du Chéry, which, with the Coteau du Vernon, is considered one of the best sites. The domaine existed 45 years ago when the whole appellation was just 8 hectares of vines (it's now 160 hectares), under the name Pinchon. Rémi's father Robert married the Pinchon daughter, so now, having been Domaine Niero-Pinchon for a bit, it has been shortened to simply Niero when Rémi took over. The Condrieus come from just over 4 hectares of vines, all in the commune of Condrieu itself, in the parcels Coteau de Chéry, La Roncharde, Côte Chatillon, La Caille, Vergelas and Corbéry. The Condrieus are aged in tank (60%) and barrel (40%) for a year. The Côte-Rôties come from two sites, La Viallière and Le Coteau de Bassenon, from the southern end of the appellation, a total of nearly 2 hectares. They are aged for 16 months in barrel, with 20% new wood.
2016 CONDRIEU Les Ravines Domaine Rémi Niero

2016 CONDRIEU Les Ravines Domaine Rémi Niero

75cl bottles, case of 6

Very expressive nose, where Viognier fruit, with its notes of citrus and exotic pineapple are mixed with floral scents. The palate is both citrus-fresh and full, coating the mouth, and the finish isVery expressive nose, where Viognier fruit, with its notes of citrus and exotic pineapple are mixed with floral scents. The palate is both citrus-fresh and full, coating the mouth, and the finish is rich and long. To drink from now and over the next year or two.L&S(Sep 2018)

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2016 CONDRIEU Chéry Domaine Rémi Niero

2016 CONDRIEU Chéry Domaine Rémi Niero

75cl bottles, case of 6

From 70-year-old vines, the 2016 Condrieu Chéry is a bit more concentrated than Niero's Les Ravines bottling, but otherwise, it's similar in its aromas of crushed stone and pineapple. Like the otherFrom 70-year-old vines, the 2016 Condrieu Chéry is a bit more concentrated than Niero's Les Ravines bottling, but otherwise, it's similar in its aromas of crushed stone and pineapple. Like the other wines at this estate, it's aged 12 months in a mix of stainless steel (60%) and oak barrels (40%), giving it a rich, slightly oily texture. It's harmonious and long, with pineapple and melon flavors giving way to gingery spice on the finish. Drinking range: 2018 - 2021 Rating: 93-95 Joe Czerwinski, www.robertparker.com(Jan 2018)

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2016 CONDRIEU Héritage Domaine Rémi Niero

2016 CONDRIEU Héritage Domaine Rémi Niero

75cl bottles, case of 6

A selection of the best individual barrels/cuves, the 2016 Condrieu Heritage is drawn from the estate's oldest vines (around 70 years old), aged in stainless steel (60%) and barrel (40%). It'sA selection of the best individual barrels/cuves, the 2016 Condrieu Heritage is drawn from the estate's oldest vines (around 70 years old), aged in stainless steel (60%) and barrel (40%). It's textbook floral, apricot aromas lead into a medium to full-bodied wine that manages to be rich and viscous without being cloying, as citrus zest and brine emerge on the long finish. Drinking range: 2018 - 2022 Rating: 93-95 L&S(Dec 2017)

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