2013 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Less open and obvious than the Vide Bourse for now, but the volume and mineral is here. As so often this is less sunny and smiling at this stage, but full of coiled energy. Very long. Drinking range: 2017 - 2022 L&S (Nov 2014)
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This is routinely Laurent Pillot’s best wine and so it is again in 2013 with its cool and restrained nose that offers up notes of petrol, smoke, pear and green apple along with a fragrant array of floral elements. There is outstanding richness and fine intensity to the delicious and stony middle weight plus flavors that deliver strikingly good depth and persistence on the complex, clean, dry and citrusy finish. This too is going to require at least 4 to 5 years of cellaring and reward most of a decade if you can wait. 2021+ Rating: 92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2015)
Introvert with more mineral-esque character than most of this producer’s 2013s. But just a bit sour on the finish. Very solid. Drink 2018-2025 Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 16+ Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2015)
Laurent Pillot’s whites are particularly stylish in 2013, but this is the pick of the line up. High toned and focused, it has lots of smoky, gunflint notes on the nose, pithy acidity, flavours of citrus peel and subtle oak and considerable underlying concentration. Reasonable prices aren’t the only thing to admire here. Drinking range: 2015 - 2023 Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2015)
Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and he and his father have now bought the other half. The wines from this domaine represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. Laurent's 1992 Grandes Ruchottes came top of a tasting of wines of that vintage in 2012, ahead of some supposedly much 'grander' domaines. Laurent manages to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father.
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