2013 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Starts less open than the Poruzots on the nose, but is much fatter and rounder. At first does not seem to have the sheer concentration of the Poruzots either, but it does have a riper fruit and greater charm. Opulent! (Quite a thing to say in this vintage), and finally on the finish it finds its elegance and length. Very long, it seems to have a great future ahead. Drinking range: 2017 - 2022 L&S (Nov 2014)
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Pale-medium yellow. Bright aromas of lemon, lime, peach skin and nut oil. Densely packed and tactile but with lovely minty lift and energy to its lightly saline fruit salad flavors. Tactile and slightly phenolic but still shows a lovely light touch. Finishes with resounding minerality. Half of this wine is from vines between 25 and 30 years of age, the other half from 85-year-old vines. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029 Rating: 93 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Sep 2015)
An elegant, airy and naturally exotic nose offers up notes of tea, spice, acacia blossom and citrus rind. Not surprisingly the medium weight flavors are indisputably finer than those of the Poruzots but not necessarily more complex or longer. This usually ages out extremely well but it could be close between this and the Poruzots in 2013. 2020+ Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jun 2015)
Floral/herby true-to-terroir nose. Relatively full bodied and unashamedly fruity and honeyed. Old-style Meursault! Rather hot on the finish. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 16.5+ Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2015)
Rating: 91 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2015)
The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières was reticent on the nose after the more open Narvaux and Chevalier 2013s. However, with encouragement it begins to open and offer attractive walnut and smoky notes, very typical of this vineyard. The palate is nicely balanced with a crisp line of acidity and plenty of citrus fruit laced with hazelnut and smoke toward the linear, quite saline finish. This is a conservative Genevrieres that should age and offer more with bottle age. Drinking range: 2016 - 2021 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Dec 2014)
This is precise and refined on the palate. A big step up in quality here. A lovely long mineral pure finish. Fine fretwork to the structure; the scent floats above this. It is delicate and intense. I really do like this. Rating: 18.75 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2014)
High-toned aromas of soft citrus fruits and spices. Sweet, spicy and rich, showing excellent lift to its orchard and stone fruit flavors. Penetrating, juicy wine with a spicy, long finish. But hard to assess with confidence today as there's still a lot of malic acidity remaining. This was the first chardonnay vineyard Jobard harvested in 2013 (he actually began with his Volnay Santenots pinot). Rating: 90-93 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Sep 2014)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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