CHABLIS
2016 Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Moreau-Naudet
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Chablis |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Valmur |
Rather creamy, even soft. It has the density underneath but less obvious acidity and structure than some Chablis grands crus. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 16.5 L&S (Feb 2018)
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Yum. Broader, more depth. Sweet, sugared pears. Really lovely texture. More intense again. Lovely bruised fruit concentration. Good lines too - but for now the mineral edge, the acidity is in the shade. Lots to come.L&S (Oct 2017)
The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is superb, wafting from the glass with aromas of crisp peach, citrus zest, green apples and oystershell, framed by a subtle top note of petrol. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional, with lovely purity and stony depth, concluding with a beautifully delineated finish. While it doesn't want for concentration, it's an elegant rendition of Valmur. Drinking range: 2018 - 2030 Rating: 93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Sept 2018)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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RELATED PRODUCTS
2020 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Grand Cru Domaine Berthelemot
Côte d'Or Burgundy France 13% White
Chardonnay.
From four different plots. Quite restrained on the nose. However, there is good concentration of fruit on the palate. Some toasty notes too. Not as powerful as some and perhaps lacking a shade of complexity to push it in...(read more)
L&S
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