CLOS SAINT DENIS
2016 Grand Cru Domaine Stéphane Magnien
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
| Village | Morey Saint Denis |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Clos Saint Denis |
Lovely intense juice. Not too beefy or broad. Fine but concentrated. So densely packed with tight flavours of ripened plum, dark cherry, blueberry. Impressive. There's a Mure liqueur again whiff and then a cassis crunch too, really good. 65 year old vines. Energy levels high in this. A verve. Stéphane explains that after 1936 the Clos St Denis Grand Cru became 6.6 HA having been just 3 HA before. Their vines are at the heart of the original 3 HA Grand Cru, before expansion. Very noble with lovely perk and then some grip. His rows are right next to Ponsot & Dujac. L&S (Oct 2017)
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The 2016 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru is noticeably deep in color. Dark cherry, blackcurrant and iris petal notes make up its quite high-toned nose. The palate is dense and structured, with a hint of licorice infusing the black fruit. A bit bold 'n brassy at first, yet it gains purity and precision with aeration, and eventually, after about an hour, I am falling for its charms. Tasted at an off-line dinner at La Trompette. Drinking range: 2023 - 2034 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Mar 2023)
The 2016 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet with perfumed mulberry and cranberry scents laced with rose petal, the new oak beautifully integrated. The palate is full of energy, tensile from the beginning, almost steely in terms of focus. There is a surfeit of gorgeous, if tightly wound black fruit, a slight confit note towards the finish and thrilling balance throughout. Outstanding, if not quite the most ethereal amongst an impressive flight of Grand Crus from the appellation. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting. Drinking range: 2023 - 2050 Rating: 95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Oct 2019)
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
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