GEVREY CHAMBERTIN

Rich, black cherries on the nose. Firm but alluring and glamorous for those who seek a concentrated burgundy and have patience. Drinking range: 2024 - 2030 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Feb 2018)

(these vines were once worked with chemicals, and the Dugats have improved the wine in recent years by forcing the roots deeper since 2004): A bit less dark than some of the foregoing samples. Sexy, complex scents of boysenberry, licorice, smoky lees and animal fur. Less sweet and intense than the other premier crus at this address, and without quite the same energy to its dark berry, dark chocolate and licorice pastille flavors. More vertical than horizontal, showing less mid-palate stuffing to support its tannins. Supple enough but doesn't quite come alive today. Is this passing through a dull stage? These old vines (50 and 70 years of age) never produce more than 25 hectoliters per hectare, according to Loïc Dugat. Rating: 90-92 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Jan 2018)

(from a .33 ha of 50+ year old vines that abut Cazetiers; 70% stems). A more elegant, airy and slightly fresher nose grudgingly offers up cool notes of earth, spice, underbrush and wild red berries. The equally cool and pure middle weight flavors possess a beguiling sense of underlying tension as well as a lovely minerality that imparts a saline character to the balanced and exquisitely long finish. This is first-rate. Drinking range: 2028 - Rating: 91-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2018)