GEVREY CHAMBERTIN

(from a .08 ha parcel; 70% stems). A very Gevrey nose speaks of game, freshly turned earth and plenty of forest floor character, all of which serves to add breadth to the ripe and well-layered dark berry fruit and pretty floral nuances. Once again there is excellent punch to the stylish and refined yet muscular flavors that also brim with an almost pungent minerality on the balanced, long, youthfully austere and built-to-age finish. Patience. *Sweet Spot*. Drinking range: 2031 - Rating: 92-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2018)

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny includes two-thirds whole-cluster fruit, originating from a parcel just before Ruchottes-Chambertin that is worked by horse. I love the aromatics here, with more red fruit than the domaine’s fellow cuvées: Morello, cranberry jus, some mulberry coming in. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very focused and energetic. It segues into darker fruit midway, but it maintains fine balance if remaining taut and linear instead of fanning out on the finish. There is a strictness in situ, so afford it 8 to 10 years in bottle, if you can. One "piddling" barrel produced. Drinking range: 2025 - 2045 Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2017)