CHABLIS
2017 Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Moreau-Naudet
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Chablis |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Valmur |
After the fabulous Foret this is considerably deeper and richer - with a great weight. There is a ripeness here that is almost exotic and loaded with spice and citrus zest. Then this gets leaner and cleaner as it spends time on the palate. Such persistence and complexity. Exhilarating acidity keeps it bright - but this has power and huge promise for the future. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027 L&S (Oct 2018)
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The 2017 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is heady and exotic in the glass, with a whole range of aromas, flavors and textures that flesh out effortlessly. Apricot, confit citrus, hazelnut, spice, white flowers and ginger give this oily, voluptuous Chablis so many layers of nuance. The 2017 is a gorgeous, arrestingly beautiful Valmur that hits all the right notes. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 96 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Feb 2020)
(from a .60 ha parcel planted in 1978 and aged in 30% wood). A mildly exotic nose features notes of pronounced petrol, ripe yellow orchard fruit, floral, soft mineral reduction and quinine nuances. The powerful, concentrated and muscular larger-scaled flavors coat the palate with sap. I like the length and though this isn’t energetic, neither is it plodding. I would add that this appears to be built for the medium-term though once again I would not advise holding this for the longer-term. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2020)
If anything a little skinnier, though more typically Chablis, than the Vaillons. Personally, I'm not sure I'd be prepared to pay the premium. Fine wine and edgy with more obvious acidity than the Vaillons. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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