CHABLIS
2018 Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Moreau-Naudet
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Chablis |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Valmur |
Valmur just 10% barrel-aged this year. Virginie explains that she really did not want to add any further weight here where it could be avoided. This is richly broad and has great natural structure. Virginie always hunts out purity and lift - always wanting to guard the 'peps' - we love it peppy! There is unmistakable power here. The weight and drive are deeply impressive. The fruit middle is ripe and full of sunshine, but unmistakably tense and intrinsically 'Chablis'. Lovely soft pineapple and firm peach fruit hold forth up front and then some chalky, sea-shell notes - an almost iodine like savoury bite to the finish. L&S (Nov 2019)
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The 2018 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is melds together fruit depth, finesse and energy to a degree that is quite rare in this vintage. Although it is just a baby, the 2018 has so much potential. I can't wait to taste it from bottle. Rating: 92-95 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Jan 2020)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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RELATED PRODUCTS
2020 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Grand Cru Domaine Berthelemot
Côte d'Or Burgundy France 13% White
Chardonnay.
From four different plots. Quite restrained on the nose. However, there is good concentration of fruit on the palate. Some toasty notes too. Not as powerful as some and perhaps lacking a shade of complexity to push it in...(read more)
L&S
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