2016 POMMARD 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots Domaine de Courcel, Lea & Sandeman

POMMARD

2020 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots Domaine de Courcel

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Pommard
Classification 1er Cru
Vineyard Grand Clos des Épenots

Super-rich, but there's lift here too - blackcurrant and blackcurrant buds, the latter giving a refreshing brightness of aroma. Drinking range: 2035 - 2050 L&S (Nov 2021)


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(from an enormous 4.92 ha parcel with vines ranging from 50 to 65 years of age). This is sufficiently reduced that it’s difficult to discern much nuance other than to observe that the underlying fruit appears to be equally ripe. There is outstanding richness, concentration and power to the opulent and almost thick broad-shouldered flavors that also coat the mouth on the mocha-inflected finish that, despite the density and richness, manages to avoid heaviness. The supporting structure makes clear that this will need at least moderate patience. This isn’t for me, but it is impressive in its fashion. Drinking range: 2032 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2022)

Ripe, blackcurrant, and minty aroma. The palate is full, concentrated, and burly. Rich, robust tannin, which gives a tangy, fresh lift. Drinking range: 2026 - 2035 Rating: 93-94 World of Fine Wine Magazine (Apr 2022)

Domaine de Courcel

One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.

The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.

The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.

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