White Bigger Bottles


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Domaine Daniel Barraud

Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays. All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a descending moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank. As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).
2016 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes La Verchère Domaine Daniel Barraud

2016 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes La Verchère Domaine Daniel Barraud

Magnums, case of 6

Tasted from Cask. This is creamy, sour cream and fresh, white berries and some apple blossom on the nose. On the palate there is that house signature of an incredibly lovely, clean flow, good clean Tasted from Cask. This is creamy, sour cream and fresh, white berries and some apple blossom on the nose. On the palate there is that house signature of an incredibly lovely, clean flow, good clean lines. Easy, sleek glide then some firmer apple fruit adds some definition. Lovely but not so broad as either the En France or Clos Reyssier. L&S (Oct 2017)

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2016 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud

2016 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud

Magnums, case of 6

From Cask. Tea cakes and toasty notes on the nose some plump raisins. Then electric on palate. Pert, zip to the limey pithy juice. Much less bulk than you might expect. Saline minerality. More From Cask. Tea cakes and toasty notes on the nose some plump raisins. Then electric on palate. Pert, zip to the limey pithy juice. Much less bulk than you might expect. Saline minerality. More concentrated, more power - but all the time nicely taut. Nicely direct and energetic. Impressive stuff. Big and powerful, but done subtly. L&S (Oct 2017)

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Domaine Hubert Lamy

Olivier Lamy, has built on the foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. The Saint Aubins remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander villages on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines. His wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016, there is again no new wood in the cellar, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true. The whites have all the freshness that you'd expect here. The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
2016 SAINT AUBIN Haute Densité 1er Cru Derrière Chez Édouard Domaine Hubert Lamy

2016 SAINT AUBIN Haute Densité 1er Cru Derrière Chez Édouard Domaine Hubert Lamy

Magnums, wood case of 3

30,000 vines per hectare (only 30cm between each vine) Just a tiny amount of grapes off each vine - this is about half normal yield per head. Good, compact, intense feel. It is high Density in 30,000 vines per hectare (only 30cm between each vine) Just a tiny amount of grapes off each vine - this is about half normal yield per head. Good, compact, intense feel. It is high Density in your mouth. Good cut and line. So much pent up energy drives the bright cirtus juice and the pithy, mineral scrape on and on. Will need some time, but this has immense potential. L&S (Jan 2018)

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2016 PULIGNY MONTRACHET Tremblots Haute Densité Domaine Hubert Lamy

2016 PULIGNY MONTRACHET Tremblots Haute Densité Domaine Hubert Lamy

Magnums, wood case of 3

20,000 vines per HA in this Smaller grapes, smaller bunches as ever with this sort of intense planting. The result is more acidity, more sugar, everything intensifies. Olivier then leaves this 20,000 vines per HA in this Smaller grapes, smaller bunches as ever with this sort of intense planting. The result is more acidity, more sugar, everything intensifies. Olivier then leaves this on the lees for 18 months, the result is impressive. Raising this way above it's Village level quality. Saline, savoury feel. But then more drive too. This is deeper, firmer, more precise than the regular bottling. Impressive fruit brawn, but more intense, more compacted citrus, lemony peel and juicy acidity. Good and clever stuff. L&S (Oct 2017)

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Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Laurent manages to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyards. He has a sophisticated microlight which he flies to all corners of France, he keeps and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band, as well as being a father of three, one of whom (elder son Adrien) worked at L&S at the end of 2015. Laurent's wines have long been L&S favourites for value in both red and white, and as William Kelley has noted this year, writing about Laurent's top red, the Pommard Rugiens, in Decanter, this 'an address that deserves to be better-known'.
2016 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Vide Bourse Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2016 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Vide Bourse Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Magnums, case of 6

Still on the lees, never moved from the barrel - no racking. More concentrated than usual. Because of the vintage's low yields. Yes there is ripeness to the fruit - an intensity which is Still on the lees, never moved from the barrel - no racking. More concentrated than usual. Because of the vintage's low yields. Yes there is ripeness to the fruit - an intensity which is mind-boggling. Spiced pears. Ripe juice. It flows well, but there is a rich feel, an unctuousness despite the healthy acidity. Impressive and full of impact. L&S (Oct 2017)

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2016 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

2016 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot

Magnums, case of 6

Wow. This has lots going on. Lots of zip and acid, led by a heavy hit of ripe, quite soft citrus fruit - some warm energy. An undertow of chalk and some fine scraping texture too. But it is the Wow. This has lots going on. Lots of zip and acid, led by a heavy hit of ripe, quite soft citrus fruit - some warm energy. An undertow of chalk and some fine scraping texture too. But it is the impact which is seriously impressive. Its all here - a big, balanced beauty. L&S (Oct 2017)

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Domaine Rémi Jobard

Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine is certified organic from 2008. Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour. Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised. Unfortunately he has been hit very hard by the frosts of 2016 - and has made only 20% of a normal harvest across the domaine, something he was struggling to come to terms with when we visited. Even more frustrating is that what he does have - is very good!
Domaine-Rémi-Jobard
2016 BOURGOGNE BLANC Vieilles Vignes Domaine Rémi Jobard

2016 BOURGOGNE BLANC Vieilles Vignes Domaine Rémi Jobard

Magnums, case of 6

One foudre and the remainder in barriques. An elegant aroma. Juicy strike to a rounded palate. There is quite some richness here too. It is fresh and lemony on the finish. It is ripe, but not One foudre and the remainder in barriques. An elegant aroma. Juicy strike to a rounded palate. There is quite some richness here too. It is fresh and lemony on the finish. It is ripe, but not too rich. Jolly nice indeed. Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2017)

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Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants

2016 MEURSAULT 1er Cru Genevrières Domaine Rémi Jobard

Magnums, case of 6

Oh yes. Lovely attack. Bright zinging fruit peps, mineral line and impressive weight. It's all here. This is super. Amazing impact! It's full, dense and broad, yet light on its feet because of the Oh yes. Lovely attack. Bright zinging fruit peps, mineral line and impressive weight. It's all here. This is super. Amazing impact! It's full, dense and broad, yet light on its feet because of the great mineral undertone and that crisp acidity - really good.

(Lost very little, probably because it was a little cloudy, so avoided the burn..)
L&S (Oct 2017)

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Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Jean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny, and with this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business. He makes wines that show well young, with complex exotic fruit aromas with the core of minerality, but they age well too. His daughter Lydie and son are now taking a more active role in the domaine.
Domaine-Jean-Marc-Boillot
Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants

2016 PULIGNY MONTRACHET Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Magnums, case of 6

Nose is nicely poised and restrained. Lovely crispy hard white apple on pallet. Bright but with super weight. Floral too. White pretty, intense flowers. Then something deeper, riper and broader in Nose is nicely poised and restrained. Lovely crispy hard white apple on pallet. Bright but with super weight. Floral too. White pretty, intense flowers. Then something deeper, riper and broader in the fruit make-up. Nice zing and quite fun feel, but there is an unctuous weight to the texture too. 'Plus tendue, plus droit que 2015 mais avec assez de matiere.' L&S (Oct 2017)

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Thibault Liger-Belair

The lack of the word 'domaine' in the name signals that this is a négociant wine from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault buys the grapes he picks having tended the vines with his own team, so that the wines can be seen as domaine wines in all but name. A couple of new appellations this year, a Corton Clos di Roi, and even a few bottles of Corton Charlemagne.
Lea & Sandeman Wine Merchants

2016 CORTON CHARLEMAGNE Les Languettes Grand Cru Thibault Liger-Belair

Magnums, wood case of 3

In 2016 this has undergone a seriously long fermentation - just over a year! It has just finished when we visit - hence its a tad reductive, for the moment. Nice weight though, nice texture and then In 2016 this has undergone a seriously long fermentation - just over a year! It has just finished when we visit - hence its a tad reductive, for the moment. Nice weight though, nice texture and then bang some gorgeous,, lip-smackingly juicy acidity. Fruit is pert and hard to pinpoint, but pineapple and riper peach in play. Creamy leesy notes add a nice new dimension but this will need time to settle and meld. L&S (Oct 2017)

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