GEVREY CHAMBERTIN
2012 1er Cru Petite Chapelle Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Grapes | Pinot Noir |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
Village | Gevrey Chambertin |
Classification | 1er Cru |
ABV | 13% |
Vineyard | Petite Chapelle |
As one might reasonably expect, this is markedly more aromatically elegant with a high-toned and ultra-pure nose of extract of cherry with top notes of violet and subtle spice hints. There is an equally pure feel to the almost tender medium weight flavors that possess a lacy mouth feel before tightening up considerably on the mineral-inflected, balanced and lingering finish that offers good if not truly exceptional depth. 2022+ Rating: 89-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2014)
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Good bright, dark red. Sexy aromas of dark raspberry, strawberry liqueur and minerals. A step up in density and energy from the Craipillot, showing lovely sweetness but also very good shape and cut. Finishes juicy and persistent, with firm, ripe tannins. I like this style. Rating: 89-92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2014)
This is much grippier and layered. Vigorous, dense and black. More clay here than in Craipillots. Masculine sweet…it has smoothness, but is not as aromatic. Yves says "It is more noble, more refinement, but not as easy as the Craipillots”. It certainly has more matter and density and layering and tension. Just more taciturn. 2018. Rating: 18.25 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Dec 2013)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.
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