2015 Alliance-Vergisson Domaine Daniel Barraud
Slightly more withdrawn nose, melon and fig which follows on the palate, rich fleshy, ripe with good acid weight, breadth & length. L&S (Nov 2016)
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The 2015 Pouilly-Fuisse "Alliance" Vieilles Vignes comes from vines between 40 and 60 years old and is vinified in barrels, demi-muids and stainless steel vats, with around 15% new wood. It has an attractive resinous, beeswax-scented bouquet that gradually unfurls in the glass. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, touches of orange rind and lemon thyme, a dash of white pepper on the back palate and then a linear finish that suggests this will benefit from a couple of years in bottle. This comes recommended, like several of Barraud's 2015s. Drinking range: 2019 - 2029 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com (Sep 2017)
Seems less expressive on the nose than their St-Véran En Crèches, although there is still a lot of flavour to enjoy here, and the finish has greater concentration of fruit, plus a charming salted note. Drinking range: 2018 - 2022 Rating: 17 Richard Hemming - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2017)
(from three vineyards located in Vergisson and Fuissé). An interesting and notably ripe nose features notes of liqueur-like pear and apple aromas that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. Once again there is excellent size, weight and richness to the succulent, indeed even opulent flavors that possess plenty of sappy dry extract before culminating in a sneaky long finale where a hint of bitter lemon arises. 2019+ Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Dec 2016)
(this is the estate's only Pouilly-Fuissé blend; the rest are from single sites; vinified in fûts and demi-muids, plus 15% cuve; this and the following 2015s had been racked into tanks a week before my visit and were slated to be bottled in November): Full, bright medium yellow. Very ripe aromas of musky peach, soft citrus fruits, marzipan, smoke and minerals are almost honeyed but not oxidative like the Saint-Véran Les Pommards, which conveyed strong salty minerality and considerable concentration but was going through an awkward stage. Pliant, sweet and deep but also quite suave, showing lovely lemony grip and serious energy. This extremely smooth wine boasts excellent balance and finishes firm and long. These vines range from 40 to 60 years of age, according to Julien Barraud, and are planted on "mostly classic Vergisson broken limestone, with one parcel featuring some iron oxide that contributes more minerality." He went on: "The sand in the clay is very quick-draining, which holds down yields, but we don't normally have problems with hydric stress here. The grapes retain their sappiness and are picked toward the end of the harvest, as the ripeness comes late." Rating: 89-91 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Oct 2016)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud's vineyards have been in the family since 1890 and with their son Julien now helping to run the domaine - they represent the fifth generation of the family to be making wine here. Most of their 8.5 hectares vines are in Vergisson and are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson).
The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat, almost California-like 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
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