SAINT VÉRAN
2016 Les Pommards Domaine Daniel Barraud
Tasted from Cask - This tastes riper than the Macon. Gently mulched apples - some sour cream too on the nose. But lively and energetic on the palate. More zing than en Crèches. More bounce. Moving faster, but tighter wound with the zipping acidity. Left with a small sensation of more savour, some rubber and stone perhaps. But this is good. A more classic Barraud style returns after 2015. Good weight balanced by good acidity. Interesting, I like.L&S (Oct 2017)
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(from vines situated in Davayé, planted in rocky, high limestone content soil which abuts the Pouilly-Fuissé vineyard of Le Pommard on the edge of Vergisson and Solutré). A notably ripe and exotic yet appealingly fresh array is comprised by notes of soft wood, various citrus elements and a hint of phenolic character. The medium weight flavors are rich to the point of opulence thanks to the excellent level of sappy dry extract that also serves to buffer the moderately firm acid spine shaping the lavish if slightly sweet and rustic finish. I would be inclined to drink this young as it may eventually become heavy. 2019+ Rating: 88 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2018)
The 2016 Saint-Véran Les Pommards is excellent, with a cooler profile owing to its northeast exposition, offering up notes of citrus zest, honeysuckle and crisp white peach. It's full-bodied and rich, but it's textural attack segues into a decidedly tensile, chalky and precise mid-palate and finish. It's a superb Saint-Véran that's well worth seeking out. Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 91 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Aug 2018)
(from vines situated in Davayé, planted in rocky, high limestone content soil which abuts the Pouilly-Fuissé vineyard of Le Pommard on the edge of Vergisson and Solutré). A notably ripe yet appealing fresh array is comprised by notes of soft wood, various citrus elements and pear compote. The medium weight flavors are rich to the point of opulence thanks to the excellent level of sappy dry extract that also serves to buffer the moderately firm acid spine shaping the lavish finish that really fans out. I would be inclined to drink this young as it may eventually become heavy. Drinking range: 2019 - Rating: 88-90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2018)
Buttery and spicy with lots of ripe citrus fruit and creamy texture on the palate. Full and verging on flabby. Drinking range: 2017 - 2022 Rating: 16.5 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2018)
(30 hectoliters per hectare made due to the hailstorm; from 50+-year-old vines on a northwest-facing site on stony silt-and-clay soil with calcaire): Bright yellow with a green tinge. Musky lemon drop and white peach aromas are accented by a stony pungency. Very chewy, ripe wine with an exotic aspect to its concentrated, dense stone fruit flavors. Finishes tactile and long, with considerable phenolic material. This very ripe wine has the stony underpinning and the stuffing to age slowly. Rating: 90-91 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Dec 2017)
Domaine Barraud
We still see Daniel Barraud when we visit but today his children Julien and Anaïs are at the helm here now. They have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but they each have their own distinct characters, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them that these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote on www.Burghound.com 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.'
With the 2022 releases this 11 HA domaine is now officially certified organic. Formalising the way they have been working for years.
The Barrauds have four vineyards that have been upgraded to Premier Cru status: 'En France', 'Les Crays', 'Sur la Roche', and la Verchère, although this last one will change its name to 'La Maréchaude' but retaining the parcel name of Verchère too. It's one of those oddities of such classifications that the vineyard which has consistently produced the Barraud's best wine for all the years that we have known them, 'En Buland', is not classified Premier Cru status as it faces north - this is electric in 2022.
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