PULIGNY MONTRACHET
2017 1er Cru Champ Canet Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
(Their plot is very high up the Puligny slope and just next to Meursault Perrières) This is very attractive. Tighter than the Referts and the minerality here is more striking. There is a lovely acidity though as well. A real bright push - powerfully keeps the fruit moving. Pear and apple here - delicious firm flesh. Quite good breadth and richness too, but fresh. Drinking range: 2021 - 2029L&S (Oct 2018)
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The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet 1er Cru offers fine intensity on the nose of orchard fruit, touches of orange blossom and crushed stone scents, all quite intense while maintaining delineation. The palate is well defined with a fine line of acidity, and maybe just a little oaky at the moment, although that should be absorbed with time. It just feels conservative on the finish. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. Drinking range: 2023 - 2033 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Aug 2021)
Bottled. Limey citrus nose and a hint of blossom. Creamy texture balanced by sour freshness. Intense, mouth-watering and very persistent. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 17 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
Bright lemon-yellow color with a green tinge. Vibrant, rather delicate aromas of lemon, candied lime and minerals; Boillot noted that this wine usually shows mango and pineapple notes but in 2017 it's more about vineyard flowers. More shapely and less evolved than the preceding samples; not austere but more precise than the Garenne, with less sugar (0.7 gram) to mask its flavors. In a reasonably rich style but also finishes with good lift and grip, and a lingering note of acacia flower. I like the integration of oak here. Rating: 90-92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sept 2018)
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
Jean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny. With this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business, and he has been responsible for over 50 vintages. His daughter Lydie and son-in-law François Alzingre have worked alongside him and effectively run the domaine, and are now being joined by their children.
With the belief that a vine reaches its full potential when 40 years old, the team look after their old vines carefully, and those in La Garenne and Combettes are still those planted by J-M's grandfather Étienne Sauzet. Vines are planted to a minimum of 12000 vines per hectare, and the vineyard worked by ploughing to encourage the plants to have deep roots. They are trimmed quite high at 1.2m to leave lots of leaves for photosynthesis, and also to shade the bunches from direct sun exposure which might burn them.
Great care is taken over the date of harvest, with careful controls of ripeness made over a period of three weeks prior to starting. The grapes are harvested manually, and placed in small cases for transport to the winery, where they are pressed as whole bunches. The juice is allowed to settle out in tank and then transferred to barrel for fermentation with the fine lees. Batonnage once a week during the 11 months of barrel-aging helps the wines to feed and fatten on the lees. They normally use between 25 and 30% new wood. The domaine makes wines that show well young, with sometimes citrussy, sometimes with complex exotic fruit aromas, always with the core of minerality, and they age well too.
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