|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Bréterins and Duresses, both really fully south-facing. Like the village Auxey, this purple-bright and super-expressive with a crunchy fresh texture. L&S (Nov 2019)
Currently out of stock in our warehouse.
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(a blend of two 1ers, Les Bréterins and Bas de Duresses – the vines run from 35 to 75 years of age; this was bottled in January 2020). A slightly riper and more deeply pitched nose offers up notes of poached plum, dark berries and a whiff of the sauvage. The medium-bodied flavors are also sleek and appealingly well-delineated while exuding a subtle salinity on the youthfully austere and ever-so-mildly rustic finish that also exhibits a touch of bitter fruit character. Drinking range: 2026 - Rating: 90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Apr 2020)
Cask sample. Pale blueish crimson. Lively and racy with real lift, though a tad rawer than the Clos des Epeneaux. A very serious Côte de Beaune by any measure. QGV Drinking range: 2026 - 2040 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2020)
The 2018 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru is a blend of two parcels, Les Bréterins (limestone soils) and, further down in the village, Les Duresses (deep clayey soils). This has a very cohesive bouquet of raspberry preserve, cranberry and pressed rose petal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, a superb line of acidity and impressive structure on the finish. This is clearly a step up from the 2017 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru and comes recommended. Drinking range: 2024 - 2038 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Jan 2020)
Domaine Comte Armand
A domaine totalling nine hectares, of which the most important part is a magnificent five hectare monopole of the Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux, which was put together by Nicolas Marey in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (along with the DRC Romanée Saint Vivant 'Marey-Monge'). These vineyards were all sold, except for the Clos (now been enclosed by a wall), which came to Jean-François Armand as a dowry when he married Nicolas' daughter in 1826. The Volnay vineyards were added in 1994, followed by parcels in Auxey Duresses.
The current Comte Armand is a lawyer living in Paris, but very supportive of the régisseurs who have looked after this domaine for the thirty years or so that L&S have been buying here. The 1980 vintage, made by one of the many Rossignols of Volnay who was in charge at the time, was for us a great introduction to the possibilities of the great Clos des Epeneaux vineyard. Then came the era of Pascal Marchand, a young Quebecois who came to do a harvest with Domaine Bruno Clair and just never left. He began a period of radical restructuring and the introduction of organic and then biodynamic farming, while making very dark, dense and long-lived wines. Benjamin Leroux, hugely respected amongst growers who approach things from an organic or biodynamic point of view, then took over, and refined this approach and changed the way the parcels of vines are divided up for harvesting, paying less attention to just the age of the vines, and more to the underlying soil types. Claude Bourguignon was employed to provide a full geological survey of the Clos as the basis for this. Under Benjamin the wines of the Clos gained in finesse and precision, while still having the depth and richness expected of a great Pommard.
Both Pascal and Benjamin were keen to expand beyond the confines of the Clos, and the Domaine also has vines in Volnay, and, a particular enthusiasm of both Pascal and Benjamin, in Auxey Duresses, where they are convinced of the great potential of some of this village's undervalued and neglected terroirs. Paul Zinetti, who had worked with Ben for four years, took over in 2014.
The vineyard is cultivated organically (ECOCERT certified) and biodynamically. The grapes are entirely de-stemmed, but left intact, for a five to eight-day cold maceration before the fermentation, which lasts five to ten days, and then the wine remains in the fermenters for between three and fifteen days, depending on the vintage. In most years, the total time with skin contact will be around four weeks, which is longer than most. The wines will then be aged in barrel for between eighteen and twenty-four months, with new wood limited to 30% for the wine from the old vines of the Clos, down to none at all for the village wines.
Paul has nailed his colours to the mast by saying he wants to make a less tannic wine in the Clos, and one which is more about aromatic length. In this he is continuing the route that Ben was following, but perhaps taking it even further.
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