2019 Colli Maceratesi Boccadigabbia
The 2019 Ribona Le Grane mixes green botanicals and hints of petrol with musky apples and pears. The textures are round, almost creamy in feel, yet with a bump of vibrant acidity that lifts the experience and energizes its ripe orchard fruits. Hints of young mango and lime linger through the medium-length finale, as this tapers off buzzing with residual tension. While I’d like to see a more compelling display on the nose, Le Grane is packed full of character on the palate and finish; plus, it’s a great way to peek in on a pure expression of Le Marche’s rare Ribona grape. Drinking range: 2021 - 2025 Rating: 89 Eric Guido, www.vinous.com (Oct 2021)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Following first fermentation, whole grape berries, picked slightly over-ripe, are added to the wine. The resulting second fermentation, traditionally known at “fare le grane (adding the berries)”, lasts a further ten or so days and allows increased extraction of compounds and aromatic extracts from the grape skin. It appears a deep, almost yellow, straw, and the nose releases intriguing fragrances of very ripe fruit. On the palate, it exhibits firm structure, expansive volume, and excellent balance.Winemaker's notes (Mar 2021)
Boccadigabbia was part of the Bonaparte estate in the Marche after the annexation of the Marche by the Napoleonic kingdom of Italy in 1808, which partly explains the presence of Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the range. It was only really after the second world war that the 1200 hectare estate, of which Boccadigabbia was just one farm, began to be broken up and sold off. Current owner Elvidio (Elvio) Alessandri's father Mario bought the farm in 1956 directly from His Imperial Highness Prince Luigi Napoleone Bonaparte.
The original 10 hectare vineyard is close to the sea and faces south-west. The vineyards are on sandy, chalk soil and stretch from the top of the hills to the Caronte depression which runs down into the Adriatic. The area has a micro climate quite different from some of the neighbouring valleys, with wide temperature variations. Here the family's ambition was to produce wines which recreated those that had achieved such renown in the Napoleonic era.
In 1996, the family bought another vineyard about 25 km from the sea, in Macerata province, further into the heart of the Marche. These vineyards have allowed an expansion into the more indigenous local varieties, such as Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Maceratino (Ribona), and Verdicchio.
Ribona, also known as Sea Verdiccio or Maceratino (the latter because it is unique to the Macerata province) is one of the delightful surprises of Italian viticulture, one of the answers to the question 'what are all these varieties?' when you are told Italy has 350 authorised grapes and possibly another 500 that are 'recognised'. There are only 244 hectares of Ribona, so it really is a bit of a rarity, but it has come to be seen as one of the qualitative grapes of the Marche, and its popularity may increase.
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