CORTON CHARLEMAGNE
2022 Grand Cru Domaine Berthelemot
Grapes | Chardonnay |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | C么te d'Or |
Sub-district | C么te de Beaune |
Village | Aloxe Corton |
Classification | Grand Cru |
ABV | 13% |
Vineyard | Corton Charlemagne |
Four plots all in Pernand. Pale in colour with ripe apple notes. The bouquet suggests a leaner style of wine than the palate delivers, which may be a question of being just after bottling. There is some complexity on the palate, a little lime, a phenolic touch. I don鈥檛 notice the 40% new wood, so there is clearly good fruit concentration. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted: October 2023. Drinking range: 2030 - 2036 Rating: **** Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2024)
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Good power and imposing feel. Quite tight, looking young for now nose is not hugely exuberant. But palate is gleaming with energy and fruit weight. Cox's Orange Pippin apple, and some firm peach - and then the citrus kicks in lime juice. Nice weight. Still youthful - this needs time. From 4 plots, all on the Pernand side. Big one nearest Aloxe was planted 1965, then some additions in 2007 & 2015 which are the smaller plots. Very good Corton, but patience is required. L&S (Oct 2023)
The magnificent, carousel-like sweep of the hill of Corton - almost 100 m top to bottom, and revelling in every exposition save north - means that exact location on the hill is critical for quality. The white wines of Corton-Charlemagne come overwhelmingly from south-west- and west-facing vineyards, coolly exposed, so often these are among the least articulate of all Burgundy's great white Grands Crus in their youth. Not, though, in the case of this wine from the generous 2022 vintage. It's promisingly pale, but already compelling on the nose, with subtle oak, wild hawthorne blossom and refined grape and cool citrus. It has all the controlled breadth you'd expect on the palate with more white blossom and subtle, vinous, breath-freshening fruits. The finish is long and lingering, mingling ripe, fruit-bonded acidity with a quiet pulse of ripeness. It will, of course, be better after a decade in a cool cellar, but there's nothing to stop you enjoying the wine soon, either. Rating: 'Best in Show' Decanter World Wine Awards 2024 (Jun 2024)
35% new oak. Cask sample. Intense limey citrus. So creamy/mealy and seductive while being so fresh and vibrant. Deep, spicy, rich and mouth-watering. Great balance and a long finish. Power and drive. (JH) 13% Drinking range: 2027 - 2035 Rating: 17.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Feb 2024)
Domaine Berthelemot
Domaine Berthelemot is the creation of Brigitte Berthelemot, who is, by all accounts, something of a tour de force. Brigitte has, in a very short space of time (starting in 2006), knocked together a domaine of 15 hectares, spread over 45 parcels.
The basis of this spread was Domaine Garaudet in Pommard, but then they also took over Domaine Allexant. Charles Allexant was a bouilleur de cru (distiller of marc) who went round the villages plying his trade and who knew the C么te well, and also the vignerons for whom he distilled. In 1957 he bought a first vineyard in Volnay, and others followed, so that he built up a patchwork from Gevrey to the C么te Chalonnaise.
The final piece of the jigsaw was the purchase of Domaine Marey in Pernand.
The whole domaine is worked organically and they are just finishing the conversion so that they will be certified from 2021.
The vinification is overseen by Brigitte's son Thomas, after he worked alongside cellarmaster Marc Cugney (who has now retired) for a number of years. The reds are picked into small cases in which they are transported to the winery - and vinified in stainless steel after a 4 day cold maceration. Extraction is gentle and mostly by remontage. The wines then go into barrel with a maximum of 20% new wood. The whites are pressed, and after a short d茅bourbage, are put in tank, where they begin their fermentation. Once the fermentation is under way, they are moved to barrel, with a maximum of 25% new wood.
The domaine is certified organic since the 2021 vintage
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