|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
|Vineyard||Clos des Lambrays|
Deep bright ruby. Nose has a complex mix of engaging fruit and spice and subtle oak. There's proper grown-up class here, mouthfilling and dense with woodland fruit and truffly humus, all framing a fresh and tangy fruit brightness and fine-tannined finish which emphasise the overall elegance. Drinking range: 2020 - L&S (Nov 2014)
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The 2013 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a wine that I have tasted on several occasions although never from magnum. It has a classic earthy, slightly green bouquet with touches of "dusty attic" that I have commented upon before. The palate is firm and grippy on the entry, leafier than I was expecting with a rather tapered finish. I have scored this more highly in the past - here it just feels like a gawky teenager. Drinking range: 2021 - 2038 Rating: 91? Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(May 2019)
Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a divisive wine, not one for those seeking layer upon layer of fruit. It is more mature in appearance than its peers, perhaps missing the fruit intensity one would anticipate from a grand cru of this stature. There is something a little "dusty attic" here although that ebbs away with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly leafy entry, gentle and elegant, full of personality. It is missing the weight and volume that a more benevolent vintage would have lent and it does not quite possess the structure or substance to suggest long-term. Yet, it remains a well-crafted and to put it prosaically, is absolutely delicious. Drinking range: 2020 - 2040 Rating: 93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Sep 2016)
Spicy and aromatic, featuring sandalwood, green olive, cedar and nutmeg notes, framing cherry and currant flavors. Crisp, taut and balanced. Drinking range: 2019 - 2035 Rating: 94 Bruce Sanderson, The Wine Spectator(Feb 2016)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2018 marks the first year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after three.
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