CLOS DES LAMBRAYS
2013 Grand Cru Domaine des Lambrays
|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
|Vineyard||Clos des Lambrays|
Deep bright ruby. Nose has a complex mix of engaging fruit and spice and subtle oak. There's proper grown-up class here, mouthfilling and dense with woodland fruit and truffly humus, all framing a fresh and tangy fruit brightness and fine-tannined finish which emphasise the overall elegance. Drinking range: 2020 - L&S (Nov 2014)
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Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a divisive wine, not one for those seeking layer upon layer of fruit. It is more mature in appearance than its peers, perhaps missing the fruit intensity one would anticipate from a grand cru of this stature. There is something a little "dusty attic" here although that ebbs away with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly leafy entry, gentle and elegant, full of personality. It is missing the weight and volume that a more benevolent vintage would have lent and it does not quite possess the structure or substance to suggest long-term. Yet, it remains a well-crafted and to put it prosaically, is absolutely delicious. Drinking range: 2020 - 2040 Rating: 93-93 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Sep 2016)
Spicy and aromatic, featuring sandalwood, green olive, cedar and nutmeg notes, framing cherry and currant flavors. Crisp, taut and balanced. Drinking range: 2019 - 2035 Rating: 94-94 Bruce Sanderson, The Wine Spectator(Feb 2016)
(produced from two large parcels of differing vine age - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 25+ years of age). Here too there is gentle wood setting off a similar if more complex nose that displays more prominent floral and spice scents. There is very good volume to the utterly delicious medium weight and wonderfully vibrant flavors that possess really fine delineation before culminating in a mineral-inflected, saline and focused finish. I very much admire the sleek mouth feel as well as the impeccable balance. Lovely juice that is moderately structured and a bit less youthfully austere than usual. 2025+ Rating: 92-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2015)
First LVMH vintage… Mid ruby . Very sweet and Morey and very vibrant. Was the selection stricter than usual ? Grainy and confident even if not that long. Drinking range: 2019 - 2027 Rating: 16.5+ Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2015)
Mid cherry red. There's a hint of that stemmy/nutty character that plagued the 2004s, hence my low score. Dry and a bit chalky on the palate with a slightly bitter finish because of that stemminess. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 16 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2015)
Wild, spicy, this sample rather volatile, then a big hit of stems on the palate. A lot of character here, all chaotic now, but the elements of a thrilling bottle are there. Drinking range: 2019 - 2028 Rating: 18 Alex Hunt MW, www.jancisrobinson.com(Jan 2015)
Perfumed and light spice aromatics. A refined silky texture. This is intense; it has a fine, pure tight, shimmering core which is swathed in aromatics and elegant red fruit. Delightful aromatic finish….which lingers delightfully. There is a very fine, fresh thread to this finish, enveloped in the rose petal aroma. It is a complex and discreet wine. From 2023 Rating: 19.7 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2014)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
Boris Champy has now taken over from Thierry Brouin as régisseur, and the team continues to do a magnificent job at this monopole Grand Cru vineyard which is very well-placed next to Clos de Tart at the top of the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. The wines are opulent and rich yet still well-defined and freshly fragrant, and there's a tiny volume of top-notch Puligny too.
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