2013 Narvaux Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
From a parcel of 55 year old vines. This is slightly richer gold colour (than the 'Luraule' tasted just before), and fatter and broader flavoured. Spicier; really good chew of concentrated nutty flavour in the mid-palate. Juicy, long finish of zinging acidity. Drinking range: 2016 - 2020 L&S (Nov 2014)
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Rich and dense and a bit bigger than many. Not the freshest but should provide pleasure. Drinking range: 2018 - 2023 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Oct 2018)
No-one ever said that Meursault 1er Cru was cheap, and this brilliant white Burgundy from Rémi Jobard is no exception, a beautifully pristine Chardonnay whose lightly smoky aromas lead to a glassful of super-intense and yet somehow restrained flavours streaked with a leesy, smoky, nuttiness of oak and a fine, incisive blade of fresh acidity. A real treat. Rating: 94 The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com(Oct 2018)
(these vines are about 50 years old, according to Charles Jobard): Bright yellow. Peach, citrus fruits and honey on the lucid nose. Densely packed and youthfully tight, with strong mineral-driven acidity framing the citrus, spice and hazelnut oil flavors of this saline midweight. The firm-edged finish shows a pronounced crushed stone character. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025 Rating: 91+? Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Sep 2015)
There is a hint of matchstick to the cooler and less overtly ripe aromas of pear, white peach and wet stone. There is notably better tension and vibrancy to the mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that exude a subtle saline note on the pure, balanced and agreeably dry but not really austere finish. 2019+ Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jun 2015)
Sweet start and a solid if slightly oily delivery. Rather chewy finish. Drinking range: 2017 - 2023 Rating: 16+ Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2015)
Rating: 92 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2015)
The 2013 Meursault Narvaux has a pretty apricot-blossom bouquet: bashful at first, but opening nicely with encouragement. There are hints of orange cordial here, perhaps even mandarin. The palate is nicely balanced, a little more “gras” than the Laurale with good weight on the finish. It needs just a touch more minerality to develop on the finish that is withdrawn at the moment. Drinking range: 2016 - 2023 Rating: 87-89 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Dec 2014)
This sample is in new oak: I like the minerality and tension which come though the rich texture of the new oak. (it’s good as there are no dominant flavours, but the texture thickens the wine) Tight line come through on the finish and it is pure and bright and salty. This was the one which had finished MLF. We then tasted one in a large barrel 300l, which had not begun MLF. (Remi bought 3 of the larger barriques for the whites this year). This is pure and mineral. It has a nervy line. Not a lot of malic really, and just an apply overtone, but without the new oak you can see the tighter line in the mid palate; the definition at the edges. It is dessous… Rating: 16.5 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2014)
(tasted from a foudre; the final blend will have slightly less than 20% new oak; less than halfway through its malolactic fermentation): Bright medium yellow. Sexy aromas of crystallized peach, orange and spices. A step up in intensity from the Luraules, which was stunted by its unconverted malic acidity and impossible to assess, showing sweet soft citrus flavors enlivened by strong minerality. Finishes firm and persistent. These vines are now 55 years of age. Rating: 89-91 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Sep 2014)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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