MOREY SAINT DENIS
2013 Domaine Stéphane Magnien
|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
This has a beautifully detailed nose of dark cherry fruit with a dab of delicate spice. There's a reverberating mineral force on the mid pallet but you can sense just how good this will become when it all knits together. It's Morey made with a horologist's precision and it's just beginning to tick. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 90-90 L&S (Aug 2018)
*Case price: Mix any 12 bottles of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Beautifully, delicately scented nose. Palate is soft, round and also incredibly detailed and precise. There is black fruit building behind - its lovely! Drinking range: 2018 - 2022 L&S (Nov 2014)
A young producer with a small 4.5ha estate in Morey, Magnien's wines are focused, ethereal and show very little restrained use of oak. Subtlety is the key here, along with hints of spice and leafy red fruits. While this is a Morey that needs a bit more time to open up, it is also a great introduction to both vintage and estate. One to follow. Drinking range: 2018 - 2024 Rating: 92 Andrew Howard, Decanter (Jul 2018)
Reduced at first, then dark berry at the aeration, round and ripe with a sweet spices finish Drinking range: 2016 - 2020 Rating: 89 Gerard Basset OBE MW MS, Decanter (Feb 2015)
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse. Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, never exceeding 20% new wood on the Grands Crus, 15% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 10% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels. Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'.
A selection of great drinking from the evocative villages of the Côte de Nuits.
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