|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
|Vineyard||Clos des Lambrays|
Lovely quite aristocratic nose, petals and dark leafy aromas backed by sophisticated fruit. This is good, really good. A lovely gentle intensity, but with grace and yet energy too. Super drive. Such fine dusting of tannin they are barely there. A seamless, polished wine but still laden with detail and character. Boris was fascinating about the details of his wine-making here. The wine finished its Malo early, by December 1st 2017. He thinks that whole bunch fermentation releases potassium and other nutrients that are good for the bacteria - and this accelerates the process. He thinks you should go with this flow - not try and cool the cellar and slow down the natural process. Whatever he's up to it is certainly working. This may be a 'big ticket' wine - but it is well worth your consideration as it will offer fabulous mid to long term drinking. Smart. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031 L&S (Nov 2018)
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(produced from two large parcels of differing vine ages - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 25+ years of age; made with 90% whole cluster and 50% new wood). Here too there are whiffs of herbal tea, floral and spice influences on the essence of red berries that is trimmed in soft wood and earth nuances. Once again the mouthfeel of the medium-bodied flavors is beautifully sleek thanks to the dense but fine-grained tannins shaping the attractively refreshing, youthfully austere and strikingly long finale where the only concern is a hint of dryness. My sense is that the dryness is related to the abundant gas and thus my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt. Drinking range: 2032 - Rating: 91-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2019)
The 2017 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru was picked September 3–11 and includes 90% whole bunches in this vintage, matured in 50% new oak. Two tanks were chaptalized and the alcohol is around 13.5°. This has a classic Clos des Lambrays bouquet, quite understated at first, precise but tightly coiled. There is fine purity here. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit laced with tobacco and graphite and a fine line of acidity. Not the most persistent Clos des Lambrays that has ever been made, but perhaps one of the most elegant and poised. Drinking range: 2020 - 2030 Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Jan 2019)
Beautifully, darkly aromatic with plenty of peppery spice. Woody rather than oaky. There’s freshness from the tannins as well as from the acidity and the texture is so silky on the mid palate yet with power on the finish. Refined, flowing, dry and long. Handsome beauty and so easy to taste even with the underlying intensity and power. There’s just a very slight hint of stems but not OTT. Dark elegance. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 18 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com(Dec 2018)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
Boris Champy has now taken over from Thierry Brouin as régisseur, and the team continues to do a magnificent job at this monopole Grand Cru vineyard which is very well-placed next to Clos de Tart at the top of the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. The wines are opulent and rich yet still well-defined and freshly fragrant, and there's a tiny volume of top-notch Puligny too.
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